Though some people might be surprised that Frank Bruni gave Franny's two stars I am not. But before I sing Bruni's praises for singing Franny's praises I must point out that Serious Eaters Kuban and Levine have been all over Franny's since it opened. I showered it with extravagant praise in a Pizza: A Slice of Heaven and Slice has extensively covered Franny's crust and its food's essential deliciousness.
But back to Bruni's review. Why does Franny's deserve two stars?
Many reasons. For his clam pizza alone Franny's chef and co-owner Andrew Feinberg deserves two stars. I'll let the superior prose stylist Bruni tell you why:
"The clams have already been liberated and placed on a thick amalgam of clam juice and cream--a doubly clammy whammy. If you ever loved a bivalve, you owe yourself this romance."
But his salads, vegetables, and salumi also worthy of high praise and two stars. Feinberg is flat out one of New York's best young chefs. I haven't been to Franny's since Feinberg reinstated pasta on his menu, and from what Bruni says, they can be inconsistent. But you can skip the pasta and have an extraordinary meal at Franny's.
How good is it? I wish Franny's was in my neighborhood, so that I could become a regular.
Franny's 295 Flatbush Avenue (Prospect Place) Prospect Heights, Brooklyn Ph: 718-230-0221
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