I know it's going to seem socio-culturally incorrect to say this, but it's very possible that the best dim sum to be had in NY is to be had at the recently opened, non-Chinese-owned Chinatown Brasserie.
Photo courtesy of eater.curbed.com
Joe Ng has cooked for many years in many of Brooklyn Chinatown's best dim sum joints, and Chinatown Brasserie consultant Ed Schoenfeld discovered him and persuaded the youngish dim sum master with the streaked hair to ply his trade in a chi-chi restaurant owned by the same folks that own Lever House and Lure Fish Bar.
Here's what we sampled, and almost everyone was a dim sum home run with the exception of the not very ducky tasting duck dumplings:
Steamed Pork & Shrimp Dumplings
Shanghai-style Soup Dumplings
Roast Duck Dumplings
Shrimp & Chinese Chive Dumplings
Chicken & Garlic Roll
Classic Egg Roll
Beef, Onion & Mushroom Triangles
Tatsoi Salad with toasted sunflower seeds (obviously not dim sum)
'Lasagnette' with chopped pork and chili sauce.
The Egg Roll was so good it had me thinking I was tasting an egg roll for the first time, in general the dumpling wrappers were delicate and super-thin, and the fillings were deep-flavored with just the right non-mushy texture.
I look forward to going back for dinner to try the barbecued duck, Peking duck and the St. Louis-Style Ribs.
I know foodies have been down on this place because apparently the party the restaurant hosted for the Beard Awards in May when it was still under construction was a disaster. My advice: Go back now and taste dim as they're meant to be.
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