The Dirty Bird is not the Word

I wanted to love it. I really did. I have profound respect for Allison Vines Rushing as a chef and human being. But based on my lunch today I would have to say the fried chicken at The Dirty Bird is not the word. In fact, it's not even a syllable. Not yet at least. My fried chicken had a layer of breading that was undersalted (or maybe unsalted) and way too thick. All four pieces had the kind of crust that came off when you took a bite. So you end up with clumps of crust and naked chicken flesh. This is not what I want in a great piece of fried chicken. I want that cosmic oneness between skin and crust that I get at Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken in Mason, Tenn.

Each piece I had at Dirty Bird to Go was crisp and greaseless. But overall it was not great fried bird. The fried chicken that I had at Dirty Bird to Go was acceptable, and I really thought it was going to be so much more. And the sides were equally disappointing. The mac and cheese was blah and uninteresting, and not even very cheesy. Even the dirty rice was underseasoned and dull. Alas, maybe it was a bad day.