A great turnover is a rare and wonderful thing. And in New York, there is only one truly great turnover, made by Madeline Lanciani in her easy to miss Tribeca neighborhood bakery, Duane Park Patisserie (179 Duane St. bet. Hudson and Greenwich Sts. 212-274-8447). Her turnovers are buttery and flaky, with firm but not overly sweet fruit inside. I can never choose between the apple and the cherry, so I end up getting one of each. I feel guilty about buying two such decadent creations, so I end up rationalizing my purchase. I'll just bring one home to Vicky, I say to myself. But I know the chances of one of the turnovers making it home intact are nil. Sure enough, by the time the Number 1 subway reaches Times Square, only four stops from home, the turnovers are both gone. I toss the empty butter-stained white bag into the trash and hang my head in shame. Another failed exercise in restraint.
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