We've been on a taco kick at Serious Eats, and while
Kenji checked out the scene in East Harlem, I've been eating my way through Sunset Park. So far, I've found three more-than-recommenadable places—but none that does everything right.
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With
Brooklyn Taco, the overriding problem, which is frankly a theme in NY, is poor tortilla prep. The good news: the fillings are really good.
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You could say we've been on a taco binge here at Serious Eats. After biking through Brooklyn and Queens last Sunday eating tacos along the way (wait for the video coming next week), I decided that Monday should be devoted to East Harlem, another hotbed of Mexican tortilla-wrapping activity (and yes, we'll be getting out of New York for Project Taco. West Coast, Midwest, South, get your tacos ready!) Check out the best tacos in the 'hood.
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Tacos were all dressed up for
The Art of the Taco, hosted by Bobby Flay, at the New York City Wine and Food Festival. More than 30 chefs served every imaginable take on the taco: some more traditional (chorizo in corn tortillas), some much less so (brisket and bone marrow on soft roti).
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Tulcingo del Valle, on 10th Avenue between 46th and 47th Street, makes a full range of Mexican classics, but I can only speak to their tacos.
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A good
taco de lengua ($3.95) is one of the great dishes of the world. Tender, fatty beef tongue slow-cooked in a flavorful broth. At La Esquina, rather than the traditional chopped chunks of tongue, they serve you a big fat slice, slow-cooked then grilled.
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Tacombi @ Fonda Nolita's big draw is that there's a red-and-white taco truck actually in the space itself—and truck food is always more fun, even when it's not on the street. But their tacos are good enough to justify a visit, too.
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In this age of food trucks and
ice cream boats, a bare-bones operation like
Super Tacos—which occupies a space near the southwest corner of 96th and Broadway on the Upper West Side—almost seems like an afterthought, a mobile dinosaur waiting to be done in by the asteroid known as "trends". But while we're all being bombarded with the latest fusion-filled tortilla, Super Tacos continues to quietly kill it. You want innovation? Delivery is available. Let the streets of Manhattan come to you.
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Set up in a former garage, the bright and festive Tacombi @ Fonda Nolita is a welcome addition to New York's Mexican food scene.
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It seems like decent tacos and sopes are becoming easier and easier to find in Manhattan—no more need to head out to Sunset Park to get your fill of tender braised meats and spicy salsas. Now that Tacos Morelos, the popular Williamsburg 24-hour taco stand has cloned itself across the river in Alphabet City, you can now get hot tacos at any hour of the day for a few bucks.
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