'sushi' on Serious Eats

Tanoshi Sushi is the Holy Grail of New York Sushi Restaurants

I've never been to Sukiyabashi Jiro, the restaurant featured in Jiro Dreams of Sushi so I can't attest to its quality, but the concepts of simplicity, a strive towards perfection, and the humility of a chef who is in service to his ingredients and not the other way around that the movie represents so effectively is the hallmark of all of great sushiya in Japan.

Likewise, having no basis of comparison, I can't really say that Chef Toshio Oguma at Tanoshi Sushi is doing Jiro-level sh*t, but conceptually, he hits every mark, so I'm going to say it anyway: The sushi at Tanoshi sushi is some serious Jiro-level sh*t, the likes of which I haven't seen anywhere outside of Japan. It's a hole-in-the-wall, run-down-before-it-even-opened sushi bar in the public transportation limbo just below Yorkville on the Upper East Side, and it serves one of the best omakase meals I've had anywhere.


First Look: Sag Harbor's Sen Arrives in Manhattan

The newly minted Sen occupies an ambitiously large space on 21st street in Manhattan. The menu is a congruous blend of traditional and modern: classically prepared sushi and a broader, more eclectic kitchen menu with pan-Asian focus. If the concept sounds less than original, it's worth mentioning that Sen is an offshoot of the nearly two-decades-old Sag Harbor restaurant renowned for their sushi. More

Date Night: Beyond California Rolls at Momo Sushi Shack in Bushwick

Receipts at Momo Sushi Shack come printed with the following: "a prayer for the wild at heart, kept in cages." Not exactly what you expect to see when paying the bill, and yet the elegiac, vaguely political note doesn't feel forced. It's the sort of intelligent touch that shows that this perennially packed Japanese restaurant in Bushwick has more in its sights than California rolls and sake bombs. More

The Vegetarian Option: Great Vegetarian Sushi at Geido in Prospect Heights

After becoming a vegetarian, it took me a while to realize that I could still eat sushi—there's more to it than just raw fish. Over the years I came to revel in the pleasures of vegetarian sushi and other Japanese food. And in the past few years, my go-to place has been Geido on Flatbush Avenue. It's not showy, nor interested in fusion or fancy cooking, but it serves really good, fresh, and tasty food. More

Date Night: Shi

Shi perfectly encapsulates this section of Long Island City. Both exude glitter and polish and sexy elegance, deliberate planning and careful marketing and a little bit of blandness. From inside, you watch Manhattan shine and sparkle, doing the dance it's done in the imaginations of so many for so long. With its floor-to-ceiling windows and plush leather seats, Shi is best for: a loungey date with a lovely view. More

The Vegetarian Option: Blue Ribbon Sushi

There's no denying it: sushi is all about the fish. But vegetarians who love their sushi do have one distinct advantage—it's much cheaper. Considering that top-quality sushi bars are never a bargain, this is definitely an advantage worth exploiting. With that in mind, I decided to explore the vegetarian rolls at one of the more popular (and not-so-cheap) downtown sushi restaurants, Blue Ribbon Sushi. More

In The Midnight Hour: Sushi Seki

Editor's note: Please welcome Zachary Feldman. His column, "In the Midnight Hour," will take you to a different late-night eatery every week. First up: 2:00am sushi. Here's Zachary! [Photos: Zachary Feldman] The Upper East Side is often blasted for having... More

Lunch for One: Ennju

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan] At Ennju right off Union Square, the Miso Katsu Don ($9.50) often shows up as a daily special. It's self-service; order at the counter and wait for your dish. There's plenty of seating, but you... More

Shabu-Shabu 70 on the Upper East Side: What All Neighborhood Sushi Should Be?

While the New York of 2010 may seem to have as many Japanese restaurants as hot dog carts, they're not all created equal. Sure, Manhattan has an impressive number of high-caliber sushi destinations, for those times you're willing to shell out for omakase—but you'll pay dearly for the privilege. What we're always on the lookout for? What Ed Levine once called the "Sushi Holy Grail"—neighborhood restaurants that do simple sushi, right, at a reasonable price. More

Apps Only: Hibino, Cobble Hill

Editor's note: In "Apps Only," Ben Fishner will be eating his way through New York's appetizer, bar, and lounge menus as your guide to fine dining on a budget. Clockwise from bottom left: Edamame, Fried Taro Potatoes, and the... More

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