I have never seen a chef who seasons steak as often and as fastidiously as Harold Dieterle does. At virtually every step of the cooking process he is sprinkling salt or grinding pepper on to the beef. Yet despite the seemingly constant flurry, the steaks at the Marrow come out perfectly seasoned, highlighting the flavor of the beef itself. Here the chef cooks a common cut—rib steak—and a European one: the culotte.
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"I am too much of a control freak to let someone else age my meat," declares S. Prime's executive Chef Joel Reiss when asked about his dry aging program. There are few chefs with more experience with steak.
"Buy the best product and treat it well" is the simple mantra that Eric Haugen, executive chef of Jeffrey Zakarian's The Lambs Club at The Chatwal Hotel, adheres to. In the case of the Delmonico steak on The Lambs Club menu, he chose USDA Prime Angus beef that's been dry aged for 28 days by butcher Pat LaFrieda.
Hurricane Steak and Sushi recently changed its name from the Hurricane Club, and much of the menu changed with it. While many of the large-format share plates are gone, the chef has kept on this 40 ounce porterhouse for two.
At Carbone, the porterhouse is both a throwback to New York's fine dining steakhouse tradition and something totally new.
When I asked BLT Steak's chef de cusine Bradon Reardon to pick out his two favorite steaks, he chose the bone-in New York strip and the American Wagyu top cap.
I am always on the lookout for unique steak preparations to feature on Steakcraft, and I found three at Marble Lane in the Dream Hotel. In all three cases, the dish starts off with USDA Prime beef, dry aged for 28 days and infused with the flavors from Mexico and the American Southwest.
During the course of Steakcraft features, I always come across insider information which on occasion the Chef is willing to let me reveal. Here are some of those secrets from Porter House NY.
While Porter House NY is on its face a steakhouse, Lomonaco sees it as a direct descendant to Windows as a quintessentially New York restaurant with a strong focus on hospitality. After the jump: a close look at the three of the menu's top steaks.
"It's like prosciutto," Chef de Cuisine Asi Maman says of the long-aged steak special he gets from Pat LaFrieda. It's served in small portions because the flavor is so intense, and when it drops on the menu, it sells out within the hour. Here's how it gets made.
Chef William Oliva takes us through the three most popular steaks at America's oldest fine dining restaurant.
Last time on Steakcraft we looked at Quality Meats' massive 64 ounce double rib steak. This week we look at another steak from their menu which is almost the polar opposite: the seared three tenderloin filets.
"People would fight over the bone, so we decided to give them two." This is the succinct answer that chef Stratos Georgedakis gives when I ask him how the preposterously sized rib steak for two came to have two bones when most everyone else serves one. There are plenty of steaks for two around town, but few top out at four pounds.
"What's more simple than cooking a steak?" asks Marc Forgione rhetorically of his dry aged tomahawk rib steak. And to Forgione it is simple, elemental even. It would be for you as well if your father was Larry Forgione, one of the deans of modern American cuisine, and if you had worked in restaurant kitchens your whole life before opening your own restaurant.
While Smith and Wollensky's most popular dry aged steak remains the restaurant's signature item—the 32 oz. rib steak—the steaks they fabricate from the short loin are not far behind in sales.
It is curious that Smith and Wollensky's signature steak was not even listed on the menu until recently. Yet the Colorado rib steak—a masterful 32 oz slab of corn fed USDA Prime beef dry aged for 28 days—has been available since the restaurant opened back in 1977.
Silva the butcher has three decades of experience, which he's currently applying to the incredible steaks at Heritage Meats in the Essex Street Market. Take a look behind the butcher counter.
Quality steak is not something that one generally expects to find in a Chinese restaurant, but Ed Schoenfeld and Joe Ng are changing all that at RedFarm, their avant garde Chinese American restaurant in Greenwich Village. The RedFarm rib steak has all the attributes of a steakhouse cu—a juicy, dry aged chop with charred grill marks cooked perfectly to order—but adds an unexpected and unique twist to the preparation.
While chef Michael White is best know for his rococo interpretations of Italian cuisine, he is at heart a corn-fed Midwestern kid with a love of corn-fed American beef. This is evident at three of his Manhattan restaurants: Marea, Ai Fiori, and Osteria Morini. At each he serves one of the crown jewels of the butchers meat locker—the dry aged strip loin. And just as the respective restaurants offer different glimpses of the thematic elements that inspire them, so to is the handling of the same cut, leading to three very different, yet equally compelling results.
Chef Preston Clark of Resto and The Cannibal is one of the men behind the restaurants' serious steak program, which is comprised of a New York strip, a T-Bone, and a Cote de Bouef for two.