After Crave Fishbar and South Edison, and having cooked in Soho's Kittichai and consulted on Cascabel Taqueria, Todd Mitgang has turned his talent with seafood south, where he looks to New Orleans for the menu's inspiration.
'southern' on Serious Eats
Empire Biscuit, the 24-hour biscuit shop in the East Village, gets its namesake right. Just keep your order simple.
Near the Museum of Natural History on the Upper West Side you'll find Jacob's Pickles, a southern/soul food restaurant with some Jewish twists, in a pretty space with some nice outdoor seating. The restaurant's namesake pickles are indeed quite good, but for something more hearty, go for their loaded biscuit sandwiches.
Marietta is the latest Brooklyn-esque Southern restaurant from the people who brought us Peaches, the Smoke Joint, and Little Brother in and around Bed-Stuy. As with those places, the focus is on new (and not-so-new) takes on Southern classics, with nods to premium ingredients and reasonable pricing. You've heard this story before, but Marietta is one of the few restaurants of its kind where the ingredient-driven cooking actually pays off, and where the prices really are reasonable.
Catfish is a friendly environment for vegetarians: if your friends come here to chow down on shrimp and sausages, you won't be left out in the cold.
Southern fare is nothing new to New York—over the last five-odd years, we've seen any number of barbecue joints, cheffy fried chicken spots, biscuit brunches. Several restaurants have taken more of a fine dining path, picking up no particular thread of regionality or foodstuff, but referencing approaches and ingredients from across the South, presenting a chef's own cuisine without ties to orthodoxy. And of these, I find Maysville—opened back in November on West 26th—far and away the best.
Peaches Hothouse, an offshoot of nearby Peaches, bills itself as a "country cafe," and while I'm not sure what that means, their menu of reasonably priced Southern classics has a lot going for it.
Majestically moist, well-salted fried chicken is the thing at Bobwhite Lunch & Supper Counter, but I'd happily tuck into this pork chop sandwich ($9.50) again.
A restaurant that features house-made pickles, pours craft beer, and specializes in home-style Southern food seems tailor-made for Brooklyn, but it sticks out like a sore thumb on the Upper West Side. Yet that's exactly where you'll find Jacob's Pickles, and if the crowds were any indication on the night of my visit, the West Siders are clamoring for exactly this kind of thing.
Maggie Brown in Brooklyn, with its slick wallpaper, small vases of orchids, and deep, wide booths, exudes an appealing bohemian atmosphere.
The Brooklyn food scene is full of hip and trendy restaurants, but it's rare that any of them offer more than one or two vegetarian options. That's why I was pleasantly surprised to discover that Buttermilk Channel has an entire menu devoted to vegetarian food.
There are plenty of bars around Brooklyn that serve up Southern-inspired food, but Enid's stands out for its generous vegetarian offerings.
I take no pleasure in writing bad reviews; but nor do I take pleasure in laying down $40/head (and that's before $12 cocktails) for a meal that ranks somewhere between poor and abysmal. So this review is written in hope that you don't make the same mistakes we did at Gravy. Because there's really nothing to recommend... except that you avoid it.
Opened in May of 2009 in a Williamsburg former pizzeria, Joaquin Baca's The Brooklyn Star really hit its stride a few months later; it had just enough time to win over dinner crowds, launch a formidable brunch, and score a few rave reviews—before a fire shuttered the restaurant last February. A year later, they've reopened a few blocks away; is Brooklyn Star as good as ever?
Come early for brunch at Lowcountry: what's an empty dining room at noon ends up packed to the gills by 1. What you'll find is that the food warrants every minute of lost sleep--and its excessively caloric pleasures will put you right back in the mood for a siesta.
Fried pork chops. Sausage gravy. Griddle cakes. And what may well be New York's best biscuits. Joaquin Baca gives us everything we want in a brunch.
Char No. 4 is not exactly a barbecue joint, but chef Matt Greco brings some legit barbecue bona fides as well as serious classic cooking technique cred to its kitchen.
Midway in my journey home from work, I found myself eating fried chicken in Williamsburg, the straight way lost. To tell about that meal is hard—so tangled and rough—the very thought of it renews my fear. —Dante, loosely paraphrased....
Photographs by Robyn Lee Brooklyn Star 33 Havemeyer Street, Brooklyn NY 11211; (map); 718-599-9899; thebrooklynstar.com Service: Competent servers well-versed in the food and totally on the ball. If you’re lucky, Caroline will be your waitress—say hello to a fellow...
You order your food at a window fronting the Piece of Chicken kitchen. The menu is mostly soul food standards: fried chicken, ribs, smothered chicken, smothered pork chops, jerk chicken, fried whiting, fried catfish, and the usual sides of collard greens, macaroni and cheese, potato salad, green beans, mashed potatoes, and frozen french fries. In fairness I should report that plates like the smothered chicken and pork, and the fried fish, cost way more than two dollars. But the best things on the menu are a buck or two, which is really cool.