In the great quadrumverate of Japanese noodles—that would be ramen, udon, soba, and somen—New York is sorely lacking in the latter two. At least, we were lacking in the latter two. Cocoron, a new-ish soba joint in the Lower East Side has brought it, and man, is it good. More

Knowledgeable and attentive, with a refreshing lack of downtown attitude and cool, Ed Levine tells you what dishes to get at Matsugen. More