A half dozen of our most talented bakers descended on the New Amsterdam Market last Sunday. The occasion was the third annual Bread Pavilion, featuring loaves made from local grains.
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This is a Brooklyn restaurant story we've heard before, but not quite.
Because Runner & Stone in the Gowanus has more going on. It opened in December as a bakery and patisserie serving breakfast and lunch. Dinner launched soon after. There is also brunch. Oh, and a full bar. For a restaurant open for less than three months, that's no small achievement.
The question is how the restaurant's full menu stacks up to the destination-worthy bread and quality pastries. Though the menu strikes a careful balance between invention and restraint, it doesn't quite reach the bakery's heights.
This new Gowanus restaurant serves a sandwich that's all about balancing savory and sweet, soft and crisp.
Per Se's former head baker, Peter Endress—whose breads you could find weekly at Smorgasburg—have settled into the Gowanus at Runner & Stone Bakery and Restaurant. And in a couple respects, they're better than ever.
Peter Endriss, Runner & Stone's baker, is one of the many alumni of the Per Se bread ovens who have gone on to run some of the city's best bakeries. He's been selling his bread at incubator markets like Smorgasburg in Brooklyn and New Amsterdam Market in Manhattan, as places to spread the word about the Runner & Stone café and restaurant, slated to open in September.
This looks like an apple turnover but it's not. It's a Lemon Turnover ($3), the flaky pastry filled with a bright mix of lemon curd folded with lemon zest and candied lemons, all made by Runner & Stone.