"But there are no eggs in mine," the chef-owner of La Morada tells us after we place an order for albondigas ($8), the Mexican meatballs sometimes stuffed with hard boiled egg. It was presented as if a disclaimer, a suggestion that these were merely ordinary meatballs. They are anything but.
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"It's a four-stool snack bar in back of a nice little grocery store filled with Oaxacan specialties." Photos: Brian Yarvin For quite awhile, I'd been trying—and failing—to learn more about La Costeñita, a tiny island of authentic Mexican cooking adrift...