Obviously, you're not being served rubbery hunks of Polly-O. In fact, helpful servers with thick Italian accents (like at Nooi and Timi's, much of the staff appears to have been exported, as well) explain each mozzarella and instruct you to work from mild to strong.
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Choosing a sandwich from
Lioni Heroes in Bensonhurst is a daunting task. The menu lists over 150 heroes all named for famous Italians. There's the
Louie Prima, The Susan Lucci, and even a hero named after
Scott Biao. After much deliberation I chose the
Sophia Loren ($13.00)—a beautiful sandwich, as the menu will have you know.
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There's no sign at
Tedone Latticini—and no bread, either. But you'll know you're in the right place if you see Georgia Tedone, ninety years old if she's a day, sitting by the window. She rises early each day—2:00 AM, she once
told the Times—to make every ball of fresh mozzarella in the window, as she has done since she was 16 years old.
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I tried to get to a store beyond Manhattan this week, but my planned destination in Bay Ridge was closed for a lengthy vacation. A friend suggested Russo's, to which I responded, "But why? I go there all the...
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My friend John T. Edge was in town last weekend, and after a walking brunch in Chinatown (less than stellar dim sum at Jin Fong, great ribs at Big Wong and exceptional soup dumplings at Goodie's) we wandered into...
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