"But there are no eggs in mine," the chef-owner of La Morada tells us after we place an order for albondigas ($8), the Mexican meatballs sometimes stuffed with hard boiled egg. It was presented as if a disclaimer, a suggestion that these were merely ordinary meatballs. They are anything but.
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For the last decade, Angel (or Piraña, as he is known to customers) has been making an art out of lechon asado (grilled pork) on a quiet corner of the South Bronx. "This real country food, papi! From the mountains!" he boomed on my first visit.