"But there are no eggs in mine," the chef-owner of La Morada tells us after we place an order for albondigas ($8), the Mexican meatballs sometimes stuffed with hard boiled egg. It was presented as if a disclaimer, a suggestion that these were merely ordinary meatballs. They are anything but.
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Mere blocks from the Harlem River, Mott Haven's La Morada has the distinct honor of not only being the Bronx's most purple restaurant but, perhaps more importantly, its only Oaxacan kitchen.