On the chicken milanese ($12), chicken breast is pounded thin, lightly coated with seasoned breadcrumbs, and fried to golden brown. It loses its crisp under a blanket of fresh, melted mozzarella, but is still tender and juicy.
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Stella 34 shares an address with Macy's: 151 West 34th Street. But the newly opened trattoria is above the store, with its own entrance on the corner of 35th and Broadway. If you don't enter there, you'll find yourself wandering the belly of the department store in search of an elevator. Once you find one, a clean, open, sprawling space awaits on the 6th floor. So too does the polpettine pagnotelle ($12).