Opened in November just off the Bowery, L'Apicio is not Gabriel Thompson and Joe Campanale's first foray into Italian—but it certainly is their biggest. They built their reputation on Dell'Anima, L'Artusi, and Anfora, restaurants (and a wine bar) of the no-reservation, close-quarters set. L'Apicio has left that Village, and that Village aesthetic: a Bowery restaurant on the scale of DBGB. Soaring ceilings, a separate front lounge, three folks at the hostess table: it's a sizable operation, as far away from their cozier early projects as it gets. But L'Apicio proves that they do, in fact, have the ability to scale, and scale successfully.
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The mission behind Gabriel Thompson and Joe Campanale's new venture, L'Apicio, is refreshingly simple: continue to cook the same playful Italian food that's won such praise at Dell'Anima and L'Artusi, but in a larger space and with an eye towards new growth. That means a pull to the familiar, but with evolution, not repetition.