Fugu, it seemed to me, is
the culinary equivalent of the monster in a horror movie. It’s all about the suspense. As soon as you confront it head on and take your first bite you wonder,
that was it? And you return to your regularly scheduled (albeit outstanding) Japanese meal.
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The day after Frank Bruni’s double-header review of Sushi Azabu (which our own Ed Levine wrote about) and Kanoyama, I began calling the latter on a daily basis. Not for a reservation though, I was after some of the...
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