'french' on Serious Eats

After 16 Years, Lucien French Bistro Still Has Plenty to Say

Lucien is the sort of place you can go when you know what you want to eat, so long as what you want to eat is classic bistro fare. There's risk in running a restaurant so traditional—the food needs to be articulate and speak to guests in special, intimate ways, less the whole concept prove hollow and soulless. Lucien opened in 1998. After 16 years, the restaurant's got a way with words. More

Harlem's Barawine is a Quintessential Neighborhood Gem

This is that increasing rarity in restaurants. It's the kind of value proposition that comes only when folks with experience and know-how combine it with a personal stake in the neighborhood to create a true gem. Did Fabrice Warin, who brings a front of the house pedigree that stems from Le Cercle Rouge to François Payard have to open a wine bar in central Harlem? No, but it helps that he lives a few doors down. More

Sugar Rush: Rhubarb Four Ways at Jean Georges

Jean Georges has their own unique convention for serving plated desserts. You choose from a menu of three or four themes based on either a season or an ingredient, like spring, chocolate, or citrus. Then you receive a large plate with four different takes on that theme. Any one of the four could serve as the sole plated dessert at most good restaurants. More

Montmartre: Has Gabriel Stulman Reached His Limit?

Gabriel Stulman's string of successful West Village restaurants—his Little Wisco restaurant group is up to six and counting—makes you both admire and fear a little bit for the man. How many times in a row can a band release a hit album? Surely there's bound to be some stumble upon the way, one place that doesn't quite hit the mark. Montemartre, in our experience, has been the weak link in the chain. More

Good Bread: Maison Kayser

The opening of a great new bakery in town doesn't just give us bread hogs another place to purchase our loaves. It also raises the bar for all the other bakeries, forcing them to work a little harder to make the best product. New to the mix is Maison Kayser, just opened on Third Avenue by master baker Eric Kayser, who is as ambitious and creative in Paris—and Dubai and Singapore—as Eli Zabar is here. More

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