Entries tagged with 'Week in Reviews'
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A Voce Columbus under Missy Robbins "is bright and airy, loud when crowded, pretty after a fashion, [and] perfectly good," though some plates are far better: "Ravioli stuffed with taleggio, with chanterelles and brown butter, is close to magic."...
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"Those who order carefully can partake of fabulous meals," says Sifton of Oceana. "A towering order of king crab legs is perfectly cooked and addictive; it would be easy, if there were money enough and time, to eat this dish...
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Sifton declares Aureole "meh," while raving about "an extremely good hamburger... a big two-hander of rich beef, white Cheddar, applewood-smoked bacon and a pickled-ramp dressing that gives plain mayonnaise a run for its money." [Sifton; NYT] Platt declares the cooking...
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While there's not much of a menu, the starring steak at Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôtes "is fine, sliced thin across the grain and as tender as cheap meat gets, a perfect midweek dinner with a friend." [Sifton; NYT] At...
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Flushing's Imperial Palace, "deep-fried chicken with minced shrimp makes an excellent mid-meal snack... crisp and soft at once, a marvel of technical cooking." [Sifton; NYT] Bill's Bar & Burger (you may have heard of it) makes "a tender, juicy, mouthwatering,...
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Ricci at Marea, "warm toast slathered with sea urchin roe... offers exactly the sensation as kissing an extremely attractive person for the first time—a bolt of surprise and pleasure combined." [Sifton; NYT] Grits at Joseph Leonard are served with "fresh...
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In his first review, Sifton gives DBGB two stars, rapturously describing dishes such as the "lamb ribs— sweetly glazed, grassy meat, with a dab of creamy mint-flecked yogurt sauce." [Sifton; NYT] Caravaggio has "a dose of extreme pre-bust nostalgia,"...
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Pete Wells gives two stars to Saul, the ten-year-old restaurant that "has neither faded, nor stood still, nor sought a personality transplant." Wells enjoys the crisp pork terrine, "a small grenade of deep-fried deliciousness," squid ink tagliatelle, and pan-roasted veal...
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After two searing reviews, Pete Wells gives The Standard Grill one star, helped by "small grace notes" like the complimentary "cast-iron platter of fried potatoes dressed with pimentón mayonnaise, his spin on patatas bravas, the tapas bar classic. Crisp,...
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"Hotel Griffou does have its allures," Pete Wells concedes, and a few satisfactory dishes, including an "appealingly unreconstructed throwback" of "pounded and fried pork cutlets under a dark mushroom sauce with peas." [Wells; NYT] Rob and Robin visit Fort...
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