Entries tagged with 'Week In Reviews'
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Choptank is "Marylandish and not, good and bad, confusing to think about." [Sifton; NYT] Colicchio & Sons, according to Platt, follows the pattern of an aging rock band: "The natural instinct... is to manically reprise as many of the...
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Tanoreen in Bay Ridge excels in meze, including "ethereal hummus" and "a napoleon of eggplant, fried soft and sweet." [Sifton; NYT] Wright at the Guggenheim is an "aesthetically pleasing place to eat," with "pricey, ornate grub"; among the better...
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At Aretsky's Patroon, "modern American Mad Men... [eat] steaks the size of weights at the gym [and pick] at tall piles of onion rings." [Sifton; NYT] "The main reason to come" to A Taste of Shanghai, "to travel some distance...
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"Nursery food with colonial accents" sums up Sifton's take on the London import Le Caprice [Sifton; NYT] The Breslin Bar & Dining Room "is worth the indulgence," writes Platt, though noting the "unrelenting accumulation of richness can have a numbing...
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Sifton files on Jeffrey Chodorow's newest restaurants, with one star for the "perfectly good quasi-Asian fare" at Tanuki Tavern but none for inconsistent, "less pulchritudinous " Ed's Chowder House. [Sifton; NYT] Le Caprice "is intended less to dazzle than to...
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"The real purpose of Midtown's Madangsui is Korean barbecue," writes Sam Sifton, "and it is the best in Manhattan," with "fiery marinated pork and sweet, tender beef wrapped in lettuce and eaten as candy or tacos." [Sifton; NYT] The New...
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While questioning the redesign of SD26, Sifton adores many of Odette Fada's dishes, including the "candele with cauliflower, saffron, pine nuts and anchovy oil that sits astride the cauliflower-anchovy axis like a king, evoking the very essence of great Italian...
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A Voce Columbus under Missy Robbins "is bright and airy, loud when crowded, pretty after a fashion, [and] perfectly good," though some plates are far better: "Ravioli stuffed with taleggio, with chanterelles and brown butter, is close to magic."...
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"Those who order carefully can partake of fabulous meals," says Sifton of Oceana. "A towering order of king crab legs is perfectly cooked and addictive; it would be easy, if there were money enough and time, to eat this dish...
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Sifton declares Aureole "meh," while raving about "an extremely good hamburger... a big two-hander of rich beef, white Cheddar, applewood-smoked bacon and a pickled-ramp dressing that gives plain mayonnaise a run for its money." [Sifton; NYT] Platt declares the cooking...
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