Laughing Man Coffee & Tea recently opened on Duane Street in Tribeca, a tiny cafe with barely enough room to seat two. It's more of a grab-and-go sort of spot, but with a few special touches.
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As befits an ingredient so texturally challenging and confounding in taste,
tripe is generally regarded with particular revulsion from its dissenters. But once you get past the idea of it, tripe becomes quite delicious. Almost always braised, its fortifying qualities also make it perfect late-night food for the winter months.
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We've seen just about every iteration of comfort food go upscale—burgers with foie gras, macaroni and cheese with white truffles, barbecue served with (gasp) white napkins. But Jewish comfort food, that of latkes, gefilte fish, and Friday night roast chicken, is a whole new territory. Kutsher's in Tribeca is stepping up to put a modern spin on bubbe-influenced cuisine.
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The filling of this
turnover ($3.75) is composed of three very wonderful components: fresh ricotta cheese, toasted pistachio, and candied citron. The citron is cut into a tiny dice and folded along with the pistachios into the ricotta. Just enough sugar for a faintly sweet finish.
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Two pumpkin desserts to look out for next time you stop by Tribeca Treats on Reade Street. First is the
Pumpkin Whoopie Pie ($1.75), in which a pair of soft and sweet pumpkin cookie-cakes meet ribbons of cream cheese frosting.
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The
Italian Sausage and Broccoli Rabe Sub at
Saluggi's in Tribeca is satisfying and tasty, meat and greens inside a sesame seed hero roll that hails from a New Jersey bakery.
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The namesake sandwich at Tribeca's
Pane e Panelle—chickpea fritters and cheese—really is a classic worth building a reputation on. But a number of their sandwiches are variations on that theme, like the
"Melanzane e Panelle" ($9).
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Tribeca's
Stuzzicheria just opened a takeout sandwich window called
Pane e Panelle—named after
a sandwich by the same name that we loved both at Stuzzichini and its parent restaurant, Bar Stuzzichini. (Still with us?)
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Quick, before summer officially turns into fall—stop by the The Odeon's ice cream cart for housemade scoops.
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Takahachi may be my new favorite spot for lunch in Tribeca (and I am
almost thinking jury duty might not be that bad after all). The lunch specials, in the $15 range, may also be the best Japanese food bargain you could get for the amount and quality of the offerings at this beautiful restaurant on Duane Street.
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