When Taqueria Xochimilco slipped away a month or so ago, I was crestfallen. Taqueria la Paz has opened in its place, with new owners, a different menu, and a cheery awning featuring a hard-shell taco wearing a mustache and a focus on breakfast classics.
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We've been on a taco kick at Serious Eats, and while Kenji checked out the scene in East Harlem, I've been eating my way through Sunset Park. So far, I've found three more-than-recommenadable places—but none that does everything right.
Eating a sandwich, in most cases, goes like this: pick up sandwich with hands; bite into sandwich with mouth. If you tackle the Pambazo ($6) at Tacos Xochimilco in this way, however, you'll end up with bright red fingers and a sauce-smeared nose.