A decade or so ago, the food world was abuzz about the boundary-pushing cuisine of Spanish chefs, led by Ferran Adrià at El Bulli—such that when the Spanish restaurant Meigas opened on Hudson Street with Luis Bollo as the chef, William Grimes at the New York Times declared, "Spanish foam has finally washed ashore on Manhattan Island... It was only a matter of time." Bollo's menu was one part inventive (a foamed lobster gazpacho) and one part traditional (baby squid in its own ink), and his suckling pig was so good that Ed still rhapsodizes about it. In short, the chef made an impression. Ten years later, how would his newest restaurant, Salinas, stack up? More