When King Yum opened almost 60 years ago, Americans were in the midst of an affair with all things Polynesian. King Yum was deeply of the moment, a casually elegant destination restaurant, like a Queens version of Mad Men (Mad Mensch?). The menu has evolved some since then, and adults no longer dress for dinner in quite the same way, but the vibe feels essentially unchanged. In here, dinner is an event, white tablecloths are a matter of course, and too much familiarity with actual Chinese cooking would seem vaguely suspicious. Purists may sneer at the pu pu platter and General Tao's chicken, but dinner at King Yum is an authentically American experience. More

I can see The Hurricane Club getting a drubbing from the critics. It is, after all, essentially an upscale theme restaurant dedicated to a culinary trend that is itself an abstraction of actual Polynesian cuisine. Those seeking an authentic exploration of the cuisine will probably be disappointed. Don't bring your Hawaiian friends here and expect them to feel at home. If, on the other hand, you want enjoy fruity cocktails and food that is not only better than it has to be, but actually very good indeed—then step right up. More