If you've never been to David's Brisket House, now is a good time to make your first pilgrimage. The Bed-Stuy institution—a longstanding Jewish deli now operated by Muslims—has re-opened its doors after being closed for over two months of renovation.
'Pastrami sandwiches' on Serious Eats
When you've written about sandwiches every day for 18 months, there can be days when you feel like you've burned through your options. But then you wander into a convenience store and remember that, in New York, a good sandwich could be anywhere.
Just like you can't leave Peter Luger without ordering steak, you really can't go to Ben's Best Delicatessen without biting into a pastrami sandwich. In this latest episode of Food Curated from documentarian Liza de Guia, we meet Jay Parker, the third generation owner of the deli in Rego Park, Queens. He started as a grill boy at age 13, where his job involved making sense of frenetic orders: "four with, three plain, two with mustard, hoo behhh fehhh faster, faster!" (that was pretty much a direct quote from the video). But even years later, the pastrami is still slow-cooked exactly the same way.
Once upon a time, every borough of New York must have had an awful lot more places like Liebman's Deli, up in Riverdale in the Bronx. It can't have changed much since it opened in 1953, and it's probably fair to say that it's clientele hasn't changed much either.