While the wontons weren't the most exciting part--whole tiny shrimp in a thin wrapper--the crispy fish skin was a revelation: not really fishy as much as salty and crunchy, almost like a fish crouton. More

If you get this shrimp wonton soup ($4.95) for takeout, they'll make the extra effort to package the generous portion of noodles separately. It's a good call, because it helps them retain their springy bite and prevents the wontons from overcooking in the hot broth. More