The first bite is a mix of flavors and textures: the pipping hot clams rest over a cooling celery root remoulade—made even more flavorful thanks to capers, red onions and chives—and it's all cradled in a fresh roll, next to a refreshing side of slaw. Of course, the fried clams dominate the dish: these battered mollusks are crispy, crunchy and copious. Such roll overflow necessitates extensive utensil work, but, when each mouthful tastes this good, who cares if a knife and fork come to the rescue? More