Not quite a wine bar, not quite an appetizer-and-entree restaurant, the new
Buvette in the West Village calls itself a
gastroteque—a French-styled establishment where small plates dominate the menu and wines are marked by provenance on the chalk map of Europe scrawled over one wall. Classy but determinedly casual, structured for drop-in dining and drinking, it's well-suited to its neighborhood. And there's fine food to be found, too.
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My friend Eric Asimov's story on the proliferation of wine bars in New York offers terrific historical perspective and lots of insight about the business considerations involved in opening one, but I waited in vain to hear how the food...
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