Chef Roberto Santibañez hails from Mexico City and opened Fonda after holding the post of culinary director at Rosa Mexicano. Here, the food feels more contemporary and a fair amount less expensive than at that Union Square mainstay. I visited last week and was pleased to find that Fonda serves a selection of appetizers and small plates that included classics like guacamole and tacos—along with a few dishes I'd never heard of, but left me pleasantly surprised. More