Tortellini is one of those pastas that always satisfies but rarely inspires. Yesterday I had the tortellini Fabio Trabocchi is serving at Fiamma these days, and I have to tell you that these tortellini went way beyond satisfying into the...
Continue reading »
Frank Bruni bestowed three stars on Fiamma. I ate there shortly after Fabio Trabocchi took over, and though I agree with Bruni that it isn't all that Italian, once you get past that unexpected hurdle, it is clear that Trabocchi...
Continue reading »
Frank Bruni reviews Alto and L'Impero this morning, and concludes that new chef Michael White is doing consistently better work at Alto. I always liked L'Impero when Scot Conant was cooking there, and I have to admit I never had...
Continue reading »
