What I like most about the various bocadillos at Despaña, the Spanish food market (and prepared food counter) in Soho, is how well they manage the ratio of filling to bread. These are intensely flavored fillings, generally cured meats and powerful cheeses, so you don't need too much of them; at the same time, they're not just a single paper-thin sheet of ham on bread. They're perfectly composed sandwiches. More