Taqueria Izucar, a mini-eatery under the JMZ train in Bushwick, offers a minimalist brand of taco. It's a taco in its truest form: hot corn tortillas, a wisp of perfectly seasoned meat, a drop of salsa, a crunch of white onion, hitting a sweet spot so many miss. It is miles away from shredded orange cheese and limp strands of iceburg lettuce. For those who are used to tacos sporting salad, Izucar's simplicity can be a revelation.
Continue reading »
A bakery grows in a shipping container in a Brooklyn yard. That yard is part of the Bushwick compound of
Roberta's Pizza, whose business seems to grow and morph every day. At first, the bakery used the pizza oven during the few, early morning hours it wasn't churning out pies. Last year, the restaurant hired master oven artisan Dick Bessey to build a big wood-fired oven in one of the many shipping containers that clutter its yard. In November, the restaurant brought in Melissa Weller, who has a resume that includes stints as head baker at Per Se and Bouchon as well as work at Sullivan Street and Babbo.
The loaves that she pulls out of the oven every morning rival any in the city.
Continue reading »
Cardiologists might want to avert their eyes from the Red's Dead, which combines bacon, soppressata, capicola, and asiago cheese, but everyone else should head straight to Bushwick and order it.
Continue reading »
Single-food restaurants are nothing new, but more and more of them seem to be sprouting up, and in some cases dominating the culinary landscape they inhabit. Such a fate could easily be in store for the new brick and mortar Bushwick outpost of
Arancini Bros., the former Hester Street Fair vendor that specializes in fried risotto balls with fillings as unpredictable as the edgy, industrial neighborhood where they've made their home.
Continue reading »
Editor's note: In "Apps Only," Ben Fishner will be eating his way through New York's appetizer, bar, and lounge menus as your guide to fine dining on a budget. He blogs at Ben Cooks Everything. Pork jowl from Roberta's....
Continue reading »
Tom Mylan and pink-haired helper at a pig roast earlier this summer. Normally when Tom Mylan (the butcher for Diner, Marlow & Sons, and Bonita) is spotted in public, a roasted pig is involved. But this Sunday, he's embracing...
Continue reading »
The pizza is already very good and may or may not be on the way to great. But I don't think it really matters if it gets there, because the place itself is already filled with positive energy and good feelings, as well as plenty of really good food made with carefully chosen ingredients.
Continue reading »
