Le Perigord is remarkable in that it has remained impervious to any food trend that has surfaced in the four decades since it opened its doors. More

Had the pork been the succulent, melt-in-your-mouth experience I had hoped for, I still think that I would be hard-pressed to recommend Aureole for lunch, when one can get do better for less money. More

Geisha 33 East 61st Street, New York NY 10065 (map); 212-813-1113; geisharestaurant.com Service: Perfectly satisfactory Setting: Sleek modern room, vaguely evocative of Japan, I suppose. Cost: Three courses, $29 Geisha is looking a bit ragged these days. The stitching... More

Bar Stuzzichini 928 Broadway, New York NY 10010 (map); 212-780-510; barstuzzichini.com Service: Casual and professional Setting:Comfortable, modern room; lots of wood and tile, illuminated by Edison bulbs Compare to:Osteria Morini, 'inoteca, Eataly Cost: Three courses, $19 There was a... More

La Grenouille 3 East 52nd Street, New York NY 10022; map); 212-752-1495; la-grenouille.com Service:As good as it gets Setting: Flowers at every table, all soft pastel colors, like dining in an impressionist painting Compare to: Le Perigord, Le Cirque... More

[Photographs: Nick Solares] 21 Club 21 West 52nd Street, New York NY 10019; map); (212) 582-7200; 21club.com/web/onyc/21_club.jsp Service: Country club formal Setting: Dim, clubby, leather and wood punctuated by white table cloths. Cost: Three courses $24.07 Not many restaurants... More

[Photographs: Nick Solares] Resto 111 East 29th Street New York, NY 10016; map); 212- 685-5585; http://www.restonyc.com/default.asp Service: Friendly and knowledgeable Setting:The room is rather austere, but that is the point. The focus is on the food and the incredibly... More

Asia de Cuba 237 Madison Avenue, New York NY 10016; map); 212-726-7755; chinagrillmgt.com Service: Friendly and professional Setting: A sleek, modern room, the soundtrack of Latin rhythms adding a tropical flavor Cost: Three courses, $29 I was a bit... More

Shun Lee Palace 155 East 55th St, New York NY 10022; (map); 212-371-8844; shunleepalace.lanteck.net Service: Tuxedo-clad servers dote on you as if you're on the Orient Express Setting: Those stuck in a 1980's time-warp might find the room majestic,... More

"One doesn't necessarily expect that the $45 and $70 menus would be indistinguishable, but that is in fact my experience." Le Bernardin 787 Seventh Avenue, New York NY 10019; map); 212-554-1515; le-bernardin.com Service: Exceptional Setting: A warm, inviting room, perhaps... More