At
'inoteca on the Lower East Side, there's a
Speck Panino ($11) that boasts a fine balance between oozy layers of fontina cheese with smears of roasted garlic, and buttery layers of speck, a dry-cured, then smoked ham
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At
'inoteca, the
Panna Cotta is textbook-perfect, and topped with a scattering of slivered almonds and macerated cherries. It is supple and creamy, each spoonful fragrant with vanilla beans.
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As steadfastly as the visitors and residents of the Lower East Side have changed, the crowds at Jason and Joe Denton's
'inoteca have kept constant. Opened in 2003 following the success of 'ino, the prim enoteca continues to stand as a beacon for the neighborhood, serving its smattering of small plates and smartly curated wines to a clientele that grows more diverse by the year. Busy most times of day, the menu of elevated rustic Italian fare seems made for a midnight nosh, and with a nightly closing time of 3am, hordes of the nocturnal come for exactly that.
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Editor's note: In "Apps Only," Ben Fishner will be eating his way through New York's appetizer, bar, and lounge menus as your guide to fine dining on a budget. He blogs at Ben Cooks Everything. Polpette from 'inoteca. [Photos:...
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The finer qualities at 'inoteca (the beverages, panino, cheese, and charcuterie) don't necessarily provide you with a full-meal experience but a perfect backdrop to an enjoyable evening with friends, which seems to be the point of 'inoteca.
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