Manhattan: West Village
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 4, 2009 at 4:15 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
New to the range of goods at Amy's Bread, fitting in right with the season, is the Pumpkin Pecan Knot. A light yeast bread, with delicate spice, a mild pumpkin flavor, and handful of crushed pecans. It's just dandy toasted with a smother of softened butter, or nibbled away plain throughout the day. Buy the bread as a ring and it's sure to last you breakfast for the entire week. Or if you grow easily bored of flavors like myself, the bread is sold as cut wedges for $1.75 apiece.
Amy's Bread
Various Locations in NYC (map)
amysbread.com
Posted by Carey Jones, November 2, 2009 at 12:00 PM
[Photo: Robyn Lee]
As Liz Lemon so sagely observed, "All of humankind has one thing in common—the sandwich. I believe that all anyone really wants in this life is to sit in peace and eat a sandwich."
So lunchers, take note: New York may have no higher concentration of sandwich deliciousness than Bleecker Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues. At Serious Eats, we call it "Sandwich Alley." Sure, it's tourist-trafficked and traffic-thronged, lined with photo-snappers and discount boutiques. But between Murray's, and Amy's, and Faicco's, and the rest of the dozen sandwich-selling spots on this single block, there are more lunchtime choices than you could eat in a month.
That's a whole lotta sandwich shops.
So grab your sandwich of choice, wander down to Father Demo Square while the weather still lets you, and make your own date with Sandwich Alley.
The store-by-store lineup, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 28, 2009 at 1:00 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
I'm a big fan of the lunchtime sandwiches at Murray's Cheese in the West Village, both the pre-made and panini-to-order sandwiches, but it wasn't until a friend deemed their quesadilla as his favorite lunch item did I even realize Murray's even offers quesadillas. Make that quesadilla, since only one type of quesadilla is offered: chicken. It's not a quesadilla in the traditional sense, hot, savory and oozing cheese. Rather, it's a complete, rice-based meal stuffed into a grilled tortilla. The tortilla itself is finely seasoned, most prominently with chile powder.
Inside, you've got the works, braised chicken thighs, brown rice cooked with garlic, cumin and onions. All of this is tossed with chopped peppers, black beans, corn and cilantro. There's supposed to be pepperjack cheese in there, but ironically, I could only make out a minuscule portion. A near cheese-less quesadilla. That aside, it's satisfying, full of flavor, and doesn't leave you feeling heavy or overstuffed. The quesadillas are pre-made and grilled to order. Make sure you ask for it extra crisp, lest you end up with a floppy tortilla.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 27, 2009 at 1:10 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
I was waiting in line at Joe's the other day when I spotted this pumpkin muffin baked by Bread Alone. And considering my goal to hunt down every delicious pumpkin sweet in the city, I couldn't pass this one up.
It's hearty, with a slightly crunchy surface, dotted with toasted pumpkin seeds (how awesome would it be if they also salted the pumpkin just a tiny, tiny bit?). Tasty, but not among the best, with a somewhat crumbly interior. Glad I gave it a try, but I'll be sticking with my standard chocolate cream cheese when it comes to my morning muffin at Joe's.
Joe the Art of Coffee
Various Locations in NYC (map)
joetheartofcoffee.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 26, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
"This is criminal," my companion murmured as he licked away my cone of pumpkin gelato and apple sorbet. It was positively freezing outside in the West Village, but I watched in amazement as he polished off my cone and proceeded to order another. "Why did you do half pumpkin and half apple sorbet if you can get ALL pumpkin gelato?" He looked at me like I was crazy.
L'arte's pumpkin gelato is some sort of sublime magic, pure pumpkin with none of the spices that often evoke fall. Just pumpkin, pumpkin and pumpkin churned into a simultaneously creamy and silky wonder. It's full and almost buttery in your mouth, a unexpectedly comforting sweet in the chilliest of weather.
L'arte del Gelato
75 Seventh Avenue South, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-924-0803
lartedelgelato.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 4, 2009 at 4:15 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
New to the range of goods at Amy's Bread, fitting in right with the season, is the Pumpkin Pecan Knot. A light yeast bread, with delicate spice, a mild pumpkin flavor, and handful of crushed pecans. It's just dandy toasted with a smother of softened butter, or nibbled away plain throughout the day. Buy the bread as a ring and it's sure to last you breakfast for the entire week. Or if you grow easily bored of flavors like myself, the bread is sold as cut wedges for $1.75 apiece.
Amy's Bread
Various Locations in NYC (map)
amysbread.com
Posted by Carey Jones, November 2, 2009 at 12:00 PM
[Photo: Robyn Lee]
As Liz Lemon so sagely observed, "All of humankind has one thing in common—the sandwich. I believe that all anyone really wants in this life is to sit in peace and eat a sandwich."
So lunchers, take note: New York may have no higher concentration of sandwich deliciousness than Bleecker Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues. At Serious Eats, we call it "Sandwich Alley." Sure, it's tourist-trafficked and traffic-thronged, lined with photo-snappers and discount boutiques. But between Murray's, and Amy's, and Faicco's, and the rest of the dozen sandwich-selling spots on this single block, there are more lunchtime choices than you could eat in a month.
That's a whole lotta sandwich shops.
So grab your sandwich of choice, wander down to Father Demo Square while the weather still lets you, and make your own date with Sandwich Alley.
The store-by-store lineup, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 28, 2009 at 1:00 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
I'm a big fan of the lunchtime sandwiches at Murray's Cheese in the West Village, both the pre-made and panini-to-order sandwiches, but it wasn't until a friend deemed their quesadilla as his favorite lunch item did I even realize Murray's even offers quesadillas. Make that quesadilla, since only one type of quesadilla is offered: chicken. It's not a quesadilla in the traditional sense, hot, savory and oozing cheese. Rather, it's a complete, rice-based meal stuffed into a grilled tortilla. The tortilla itself is finely seasoned, most prominently with chile powder.
Inside, you've got the works, braised chicken thighs, brown rice cooked with garlic, cumin and onions. All of this is tossed with chopped peppers, black beans, corn and cilantro. There's supposed to be pepperjack cheese in there, but ironically, I could only make out a minuscule portion. A near cheese-less quesadilla. That aside, it's satisfying, full of flavor, and doesn't leave you feeling heavy or overstuffed. The quesadillas are pre-made and grilled to order. Make sure you ask for it extra crisp, lest you end up with a floppy tortilla.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 27, 2009 at 1:10 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
I was waiting in line at Joe's the other day when I spotted this pumpkin muffin baked by Bread Alone. And considering my goal to hunt down every delicious pumpkin sweet in the city, I couldn't pass this one up.
It's hearty, with a slightly crunchy surface, dotted with toasted pumpkin seeds (how awesome would it be if they also salted the pumpkin just a tiny, tiny bit?). Tasty, but not among the best, with a somewhat crumbly interior. Glad I gave it a try, but I'll be sticking with my standard chocolate cream cheese when it comes to my morning muffin at Joe's.
Joe the Art of Coffee
Various Locations in NYC (map)
joetheartofcoffee.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 26, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
"This is criminal," my companion murmured as he licked away my cone of pumpkin gelato and apple sorbet. It was positively freezing outside in the West Village, but I watched in amazement as he polished off my cone and proceeded to order another. "Why did you do half pumpkin and half apple sorbet if you can get ALL pumpkin gelato?" He looked at me like I was crazy.
L'arte's pumpkin gelato is some sort of sublime magic, pure pumpkin with none of the spices that often evoke fall. Just pumpkin, pumpkin and pumpkin churned into a simultaneously creamy and silky wonder. It's full and almost buttery in your mouth, a unexpectedly comforting sweet in the chilliest of weather.
L'arte del Gelato
75 Seventh Avenue South, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-924-0803
lartedelgelato.com
Posted by Nikki Goldstein, October 23, 2009 at 11:00 AM
[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]
It only seems natural that a Scandinavian restaurant would serve fabulous lox at brunch. A good Jew with a hearty appetite for salmon in any shape or form, I looked eagerly to Smorgas Chef to fill my craving. I'd heard good things about their Swedish meatballs, and figured if authenticity was a strength of theirs, I'd be in trustworthy hands. That's why I wasn't surprised to discover a winning dish in the House-Cured Gravlax Club. What was surprising was its sheer size. Not only was it hard to wrap my mouth around, but much of its substance came from a generous portion of that fine cured fish.
For starters, gravlax isn't the most common form of salmon. The Scandinavian preparation dates back to the Middle Ages, but shows up in New York far less often than nova and lox. Unlike the others, which are smoked, gravlax is cured in salt, sugar, and dill which turn into brine as the salmon releases its moisture. Smorgas Chef's version has a sweet note to counter its natural saltiness, and the texture is a little heartier, a little less melt-in-your-mouth than lox. Overall, it's exactly what you're looking for in good gravlax.
Continue reading »
Posted by Carey Jones, October 16, 2009 at 12:30 PM
So much for fall. In New York, it feels like we've gone from shorts to winter coats in just a few days. But fortunately, there are plenty of rainy-day eats to warm you up. Ten of our favorite comfort foods, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Nikki Goldstein, October 16, 2009 at 11:15 AM
[Photo: Yogma on Flickr]
No matter our restaurant of choice, my boyfriend and trusty brunch companion is always reliable in his menu selections. Whereas I'm a fan of breakfast foods as late as 3:00 p.m., he's a solid burger guy. Serious Eaters know the infinite variations on the burger quite well, but at many restaurants, the burger simply an afterthought meant to appease less adventurous eaters. Not so at Perilla. In fact, the burger at this West Village restaurant, home of Top Chef Season 1 winner Harold Dieterle, is one of the menu's must-try dishes.
Dieterle has a real penchant for duck, and his spicy duck burger reflects that obsession. Much as he does with his signature dinner entrée of duck meatballs, the chef grinds the meat, then seasons it with a blend of scallions, thai chilis, and sriracha, resulting in a mild but well-pronounced heat that lingers pleasantly on the patale. The unconventional choice of meat works quite well, too—the extra fat content keeps the thick burger juicy but not leaky, with a nice char on the outside. And just as important as the patty, of course, is the bun, a homemade brioche that holds its contents without falling apart.
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, October 15, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Photo: Joe DiStefano
Football holds even less interest for me than watching paint dry, but when bacon-wrapped hot dogs loaded with all manner of toppings are involved, I can be persuaded to pretend to watch a few... innings? (That is what the segments of that militaristic game are called, no?)
The Border Dogs ($8 each) pictured above are part of Cabrito's new Sunday football menu. Left to right: the Sonora dog, pinto beans, tomato, onion, cotija cheese and pickled jalapeno aioli; El Lucha Libre, well-fried beans, salsa roja, pickled jalapeno aioli, and crumbled chicharrones; and the Danger Dog, guacamole and pineapple habañero salsa.
Continue reading »
Posted by Ed Levine, October 13, 2009 at 11:00 PM
[Photographs: Adam Kuban]
Joseph Leonard
170 Waverly Place, New York NY 10014 (at Christopher; map); 646-429-8383; josephleonard.com
Service: Casual, enthusiastic, attentive
Setting: A tiny space that looks like your favorite eccentric uncle's studio apartment
Compare It To: Little Owl, Bouchon Bakery
Must-Haves: House-made pastrami, hamburger, hash browns, brussels sprouts, salted caramel pudding, carrot cake
Cost: $20 for a burger, fries, drink, tax, and tip
Grade: A-
Adam Kuban and I were looking for a suitable spot in the Village to have lunch with our Pieman's Craft co-stars Anthony Mangieri and Mathieu Palombino. Both Mangieri and Palombino are discerning serious eaters, so I was feeling the pressure that comes with finding just the right spot. I had read a fair amount about the dinner menu at new West Village spot Joseph Leonard, but no one had written anything about the newly inaugurated lunch menu.
I knew that former Bouchon Bakery chef de cuisine Jim McDuffee was in charge of the kitchen at Joseph Leonard, so I thought the man would have lunch chops to burn.
When we walked into Joseph Leonard we were confronted by a blackboard sign:
"Open for lunch. Get your stretch pants ready for a one-way trip to Yummyville."
With a sign like that, I thought to myself, this food had better be good. Either that or Joseph Leonard owner Gabriel Stulman needs to take a copywriting course at the School of Visual Arts. So would the next stop on the Serious Eats train be Yummyville or Palookaville? The four of us were going to find out.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 8, 2009 at 4:00 PM
For once, I got something other than banana pudding at Magnolia Bakery in the West Village. This month, it seems only right to eat a pumpkin dessert if the option makes itself present. Behind the glass cases were rows and rows of petite pumpkin cheesecakes, each topped with whipped cream and crushed pecans. As for the crust? A lovely gingersnap-pecan. The cheesecake itself was sweet, heavy with pumpkin, and rich, but lacking in spices. Satisfying, though nowhere among the best. Also spotted: pumpkin cupcakes and pumpkin spice cakes, though considering with my track record with Magnolia's cake products, I'd stick with puddings, pies, and cheesecakes.
Magnolia Bakery
401 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 (at West 11th Street; map)
212-462-2572; magnoliabakery.com
Related
The Dessert Files: The Top 5 Pumpkin Sweets to Kick Off Autumn
Why Eat Cupcakes at Magnolia Bakery When Everything Else Is So Much Better?
Posted by Carey Jones, October 6, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Or, 'Ed Levine's Existential Bagel Crisis'
[Photographs: Robyn Lee and Carey Jones]
The Heisen-Bagel Uncertainty Principle
n. The principle of bagels that holds the following: The act of transporting a bagel to a second location produces fundamental uncertainties in its inherent qualities, such that determining a true "best bagel," in a head-to-head face-off, becomes impossible.
It's a question asked so often that it's astounding that we've never attempted an answer.
Who makes the best bagel in New York?
There are a few clear contenders. In the past, Ed has leaned toward the Upper West Side's Absolute Bagels; his exhaustive 2003 bagel hunt for the New York Times also saluted Bagel Oasis and Hot Bialys in Queens, Terrace Bagels in Windsor Terrace, and Manhattan stalwart Murray's.
And then there are Ess-A-Bagel and H&H, and neighborhood favorites like Bagel Hole and Brooklyn Bagel—all of whom have their fanatical defenders.
So we organized a simple taste-test. Serious eaters would fan out over the three most bagel-happy boroughs and hurry back to World Headquarters with their piping hot loot, as fast as their feet, bikes, buses, trains, subways, or Zipcars could carry them. We'd cut them all up; we'd do a blind tasting; we'd ponder their merits and crown a winner. Simple, right?
But it wasn't that easy.
Ed, hard at work.
The problem became clear as we chomped our way through Round One, pens at the ready, taking bite after bite. None of the bagels were more than two hours old. All of them had been hand-delivered that morning. But chewing through so many mouthfuls of plain bagels, we all felt the same uneasy feeling descending upon us. Ed broke the silence.
"They all taste the same."
Well... not quite the same.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 5, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
At L'Arte del Gelato, hands-down my favorite gelato shop in the city, I get gelato in a cone, and in a cup, and on some occasions, on brioche in a sandwich. But this morning, I had my first L'Arte Frappe. I was advise by the owner to pick a rich, bold flavor for the frappe, and immediately settled on the Chocolate-Chili gelato. The gelato is blended with 2% milk, making for a thinner, less texturally rich drink. But in return, the gelato flavor is allowed to shine. And in this case, that is a very good thing. The drink is liquidy, but velvety—a refined chocolate with a lingering chili burn at the end. Intense!
A quick note: Pumpkin gelato is back, and as amazing as ever. Look out for a Sugar Rush post on it soon!
L'Arte del Gelato
75 Seventh Avenue, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-924-0803
lartedelgelato.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 1, 2009 at 2:45 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
This most certainly qualifies as dessert in my book. Warm toast, mounds of fresh ricotta, honey, chopped almonds, and fresh figs. It's nothing new or inventive, but delicious? Oh yes. Be warned though, at $7 an order, it's an overpriced indulgence, especially when you can recreate it quite easily at home.
Gottino
52 Greenwich Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-633-2590
ilovegottino.com
Posted by Tia Kim, September 30, 2009 at 1:45 PM
"The result is scrumptious porcine deliciousness."
[Photo: Tia Kim]
One rainy night this week, tired, jet-lagged, and without much of an appetite, I stumbled into Bar Blanc Bistro in the West Village looking for a few flavorful bites to go along with a much-needed beer. After quickly scanning the bar menu, I ordered Crispy Pig Ears ($6), a Crostini ($7), and a Peak Organic Pale Ale ($3, half off before 7pm) on draft.
The pig ears brought me back to a conversation with someone I just met on vacation about restaurant horror stories. According to him, on his last vacation in Tokyo, he wanted something "normal" and went to a Spanish restaurant. The punch line was that at the restaurant he accidentally ordered pig ears. I think he expected me to laugh in disgust, but to his displeasure I only emitted a polite "ha, ha." Personally, I love pig ears. There isn't a part on a pig I don't like, and the pig ears that dreary night were no exception.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 29, 2009 at 2:00 PM
The newest baked good at Birdbath, in both East and West Village locations, almost qualifies as health food. Behold, the banana-miso muffin, made with spelt and soynuts. It's on the dry end in that healthy sort of way, but is strangely addictive, barely sweet at all, and goes very well with a cup of hot coffee. Chunks of fresh bananas fill out the hollowed center of this "muffin." The miso isn't prevalent, but I love the nutty pop of the soynuts in every bite.
Birdbath
223 First Avenue, New York NY 10003 map)
646-722-6565
145 Seventh Avenue, New York NY 10014 map)
646-722-6570
buildagreenbakery.com
Posted by Carey Jones, September 29, 2009 at 12:30 PM
[Photo: A Passion For Food]
There's nothing easier to find in the West Village than mediocre overpriced takeout, but over at A Passion For Food, Kathy has one recommendation: Moustache.
Above is the Ouzi: "A baked rice dish wrapped in filo, with tangy yogurt and mint sauce on the side.The rice is mixed with chicken, carrots, sweet peas, onions, raisins, almonds, basmati rice and 'special spices.' I imagine that it is easy to see why Moustache is a standby."
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 25, 2009 at 2:30 PM
Meet Winkie, the gluten-free Twinkie. I found him in a display of gluten-free baked goods by Risotteria in the West Village, sold as set of two for $5. The cake element was unremarkable, ordinary (though, luckily, not bouncy). But it was the cream filling I found a little harder to digest—somehow slick and fluffy at once, coating your tongue in a thick layer of grease, likely due a heavy hand of vegetable shortening. I'm no fan of the original Twinkie, but I cannot say I enjoyed this Winkie any more.
Risotteria
270 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 map)
212-924-6664
risotteria.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 18, 2009 at 3:30 PM
I came looking for a warm mudslide cookie on a chilly Saturday afternoon, but instead walked away with the first slice of a newly-cut Flourless Chocolate Cake ($3). Dark, decadent... well, the picture says it all. Everything from the creamy, melt-on-your tongue body of the cake to the thickly slicked glossy ganache. I pondered pairing it with a cup of the Wicked Hot Chocolate. But that would have just been overkill.
Jacques Torres
350 Hudson Street, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-414-2462
mrchocolate.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 9, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Certain desserts bear that wholesome charm, the capacity to make you so happy, giddy in a single moment. A slice (or two) of the Blueberry Crumble Pie at Pearl Oyster Bar does just that for me. Each wedge is on the thin end, and on the pricey side, at $8 a piece. But it's a pie worth seeking out for the filling alone—positively bubbling with whole taut berries, fresh and remarkably sweet during these warmer months. The crust is all you would expect from a fine pie, perhaps a bit more, with its perfect folds. And don't forget the crumble! Buttery and golden, with a crunchy wealth of brown sugar. And if that doesn't make you smile, I don't know what will.
Pearl Oyster Bar
18 Cornelia Street, New York NY 10014 (map)
212-691-8211
www.pearloysterbar.com
