Manhattan: Little Italy

Mix it Up: The Golden Ticket at The Randolph at Broome

20091009-mixitup-pickleback.jpg

The Pickleback. [Photographs: Lush Life Productions]

We are lucky in New York. We've got several high-end cocktail bars that make amazing drinks, are extremely meticulous about their ingredients and their process, and will wow you with their inventive libations. Unfortunately, some of these bars are not only small to begin with, but won't allow you to stand, so are very difficult to get into once their few precious seats are filled. Granted, this makes for a genteel atmosphere, which is something you may want when enjoying a fine cocktail. When you are looking for all of the benefits of the sophisticated establishments in more relaxed surroundings, head to The Randolph at Broome.

Don't let the unpretentiousness of the place fool you—there are some serious cocktails going on. They've got a cocktail list, but more often than not you can walk in, offer the bartender a few guidelines, and enjoy a cocktail to your specifications, whether you're looking for something light and refreshing or brown, bitter, and stirred.

Continue reading »

Getting Over My Fear of Little Italy at Alleva Dairy

Editor's note: We hear again from Serious Eats community member BaHa, aka Barbara Hanson, who checks with us in now and again about the various little one-of-a-kind food stores and markets in New York. Here is her recipe for stuffed shells with spinach from Alleva Dairy in Little Italy.

"Alleva's mozzarella is all that mozzarella should be: soft but toothsoome, oozing warm milk from its center."

20081208-alleva1.jpg

My first trip to Little Italy was the scene of my first, and only, crime. On a dare, from the pair of ten-year-old hardened criminals who were my Brooklyn Catholic school classmates, I stole a zucchini from a vegetable stand. After the deed was done, I quickly made my way through the roiling San Gennaro Saturday night crowd, and disposed of the evidence in the nearest garbage can. Nonetheless, that act of criminality haunted my dreams for weeks, even after going to confession. However, it wasn't hell that I was afraid of: I stayed away from Little Italy until I was in my teens, until my fear of arrest finally faded.

20081208-cheese.jpg

Today, I love Little Italy. Yes, it's touristy and fake and its souvenir stores sell the dumbest t-shirts this side of the Jersey Shore. And most of its current residents are likely to come from places that Marco Polo explored, not where he started out. And, yes, the Feast of San Gennaro has lost much of its original charm.

Why, then, do I find myself returning to the Feast year after year, trying to track down the mother-and-daughter team who make ethereal zeppole? Why bother going to Little Italy at all, when we're surrounded by the likes of Whole Foods and Trader Joe's?

Continue reading »

Alidoro Sandwiches Available Now at the Randolph

20081016alidoro.jpgAs far as we're concerned, the more Alidoro the better, so it was pretty exciting news to hear that the Randolph would be serving Alidoro designed sandwiches—including three pressed versions not available at the West Village Italian shop. Our excitement is tempered a little bit by Grub Street's warning that "anyone expecting the hulking beasts from Alidoro will be roundly disappointed" but that's ok. The menu still looks pretty awesome.

The Randolph

349 Broome Street, New York NY 10013 (b/n Bowery and Elizabeth; map)
212-274-0667

Bánh Mì Số 1’s Vietnamese Mystery Quiche

20080814SaigonExt.jpg

When I first started going to Viet-Nam Bánh Mì Số 1 the price of a Vietnamese sandwich hadn’t yet risen to $3.95. It was owned by a gent who went by the name Tony. For some reason I got a kick out of going to a Vietnamese deli in Little Italy to buy bánh mì from a guy named Tony. Even though the menu offers 15 varieties of Vietnamese sandwiches, I always go with the house special No. 1. Since I love this sandwich so much I routinely ignore the summer rolls and other treats lining the counter.

Continue reading »

Louis DiPalo is the Italian Cheese Man!

My friend John T. Edge was in town last weekend, and after a walking brunch in Chinatown (less than stellar dim sum at Jin Fong, great ribs at Big Wong and exceptional soup dumplings at Goodie's) we wandered into DiPalo Diary to see if Louis DiPalo was around. We walked into the store, and there was Louis behind the counter. Amazingly, there wasn't the usual sea of people crowded into the small space waiting to buy the wonderful array of cheese, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and salumi that Louis and his family have been selling for almost a hundred years.

Louis said he was right in the middle of making a batch of mozzarella, and would soon return to take care of John T., who was looking for some Italian cheeses that would travel well enough for him to serve them to his wife for her birthday party in Mississippi. Five minutes later Louis came over to see us, washed his hands, and proceeded to give us a half-hour class on Pecorino Romano cheeses he had on-hand.

I am always transfixed by Louis' mastery of his subjects. His passion is infectious, and his knowledge and experience are equally impressive. Louis' prices are incredibly reasonable. He sells real balsamic vinegar for way less than other shops and on-line sources. He has about ten kinds of Italian canned and jarred tuna on-hand, and he can tell you more than you might want to know about every one of them. Louis is a national treasure, and I urge all of you who can to go down to the store. Call first to make sure Louis is there, and also make sure you are not in a hurry.

When you go to DiPalo's you aren't just shopping for food. You're taking a master class in artisanal Italian food products. DiPalo Dairy is at 200 Grand Street in NYC, ph: 212-226-1033. They will ship and take phone orders. They just don't have an on-line catalogue.

Mix it Up: The Golden Ticket at The Randolph at Broome

20091009-mixitup-pickleback.jpg

The Pickleback. [Photographs: Lush Life Productions]

We are lucky in New York. We've got several high-end cocktail bars that make amazing drinks, are extremely meticulous about their ingredients and their process, and will wow you with their inventive libations. Unfortunately, some of these bars are not only small to begin with, but won't allow you to stand, so are very difficult to get into once their few precious seats are filled. Granted, this makes for a genteel atmosphere, which is something you may want when enjoying a fine cocktail. When you are looking for all of the benefits of the sophisticated establishments in more relaxed surroundings, head to The Randolph at Broome.

Don't let the unpretentiousness of the place fool you—there are some serious cocktails going on. They've got a cocktail list, but more often than not you can walk in, offer the bartender a few guidelines, and enjoy a cocktail to your specifications, whether you're looking for something light and refreshing or brown, bitter, and stirred.

Continue reading »

Getting Over My Fear of Little Italy at Alleva Dairy

Editor's note: We hear again from Serious Eats community member BaHa, aka Barbara Hanson, who checks with us in now and again about the various little one-of-a-kind food stores and markets in New York. Here is her recipe for stuffed shells with spinach from Alleva Dairy in Little Italy.

"Alleva's mozzarella is all that mozzarella should be: soft but toothsoome, oozing warm milk from its center."

20081208-alleva1.jpg

My first trip to Little Italy was the scene of my first, and only, crime. On a dare, from the pair of ten-year-old hardened criminals who were my Brooklyn Catholic school classmates, I stole a zucchini from a vegetable stand. After the deed was done, I quickly made my way through the roiling San Gennaro Saturday night crowd, and disposed of the evidence in the nearest garbage can. Nonetheless, that act of criminality haunted my dreams for weeks, even after going to confession. However, it wasn't hell that I was afraid of: I stayed away from Little Italy until I was in my teens, until my fear of arrest finally faded.

20081208-cheese.jpg

Today, I love Little Italy. Yes, it's touristy and fake and its souvenir stores sell the dumbest t-shirts this side of the Jersey Shore. And most of its current residents are likely to come from places that Marco Polo explored, not where he started out. And, yes, the Feast of San Gennaro has lost much of its original charm.

Why, then, do I find myself returning to the Feast year after year, trying to track down the mother-and-daughter team who make ethereal zeppole? Why bother going to Little Italy at all, when we're surrounded by the likes of Whole Foods and Trader Joe's?

Continue reading »

Alidoro Sandwiches Available Now at the Randolph

20081016alidoro.jpgAs far as we're concerned, the more Alidoro the better, so it was pretty exciting news to hear that the Randolph would be serving Alidoro designed sandwiches—including three pressed versions not available at the West Village Italian shop. Our excitement is tempered a little bit by Grub Street's warning that "anyone expecting the hulking beasts from Alidoro will be roundly disappointed" but that's ok. The menu still looks pretty awesome.

The Randolph

349 Broome Street, New York NY 10013 (b/n Bowery and Elizabeth; map)
212-274-0667

Bánh Mì Số 1’s Vietnamese Mystery Quiche

20080814SaigonExt.jpg

When I first started going to Viet-Nam Bánh Mì Số 1 the price of a Vietnamese sandwich hadn’t yet risen to $3.95. It was owned by a gent who went by the name Tony. For some reason I got a kick out of going to a Vietnamese deli in Little Italy to buy bánh mì from a guy named Tony. Even though the menu offers 15 varieties of Vietnamese sandwiches, I always go with the house special No. 1. Since I love this sandwich so much I routinely ignore the summer rolls and other treats lining the counter.

Continue reading »

Louis DiPalo is the Italian Cheese Man!

My friend John T. Edge was in town last weekend, and after a walking brunch in Chinatown (less than stellar dim sum at Jin Fong, great ribs at Big Wong and exceptional soup dumplings at Goodie's) we wandered into DiPalo Diary to see if Louis DiPalo was around. We walked into the store, and there was Louis behind the counter. Amazingly, there wasn't the usual sea of people crowded into the small space waiting to buy the wonderful array of cheese, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and salumi that Louis and his family have been selling for almost a hundred years.

Louis said he was right in the middle of making a batch of mozzarella, and would soon return to take care of John T., who was looking for some Italian cheeses that would travel well enough for him to serve them to his wife for her birthday party in Mississippi. Five minutes later Louis came over to see us, washed his hands, and proceeded to give us a half-hour class on Pecorino Romano cheeses he had on-hand.

I am always transfixed by Louis' mastery of his subjects. His passion is infectious, and his knowledge and experience are equally impressive. Louis' prices are incredibly reasonable. He sells real balsamic vinegar for way less than other shops and on-line sources. He has about ten kinds of Italian canned and jarred tuna on-hand, and he can tell you more than you might want to know about every one of them. Louis is a national treasure, and I urge all of you who can to go down to the store. Call first to make sure Louis is there, and also make sure you are not in a hurry.

When you go to DiPalo's you aren't just shopping for food. You're taking a master class in artisanal Italian food products. DiPalo Dairy is at 200 Grand Street in NYC, ph: 212-226-1033. They will ship and take phone orders. They just don't have an on-line catalogue.