The Vegetarian Option: Balkanika

20120130-190523-veg-option-balkanika-meze.jpg

[Photographs: Howard Walfish]

Balkankia, around the corner from Restaurant Row in Hell's Kitchen, purports to go beyond just generic Mediterranean food. As its name suggests, it hopes to encompass the food of the entire Balkan region. Their menu provides a helpful map for people (like me) who may not be sure what that entails: north as far as Romania and Moldova, south the Greece, west to Slovenia, and East to Turkey. The food ranges from small salads, called meze in the Turkish style, through heavy stews and gratins.

Continue reading »

Mexican Eats: Guelaguetza

Guelaguetza Green Pork.jpg

In a borough that's not particularly know for it, Hell's Kitchen hosts a pocket of good and cheap Manhattan Mexican food. Bodegas with back-room kitchens serving respectable tacos and dot 10th Avenue and tiny take-out joints shuttle burritos to the doors of many. Guelaguetza, on 47th Street, is a fine emblem. A sliver of a grocery selling Mexican boxed goods, toilet paper, and pour-it-your-self coffee, there's a kitchen in back. The green awning outside reads La Rosita, but it's the husband and wife team behind Guelaguetza crafting satisfying versions of the classics.

Continue reading »

Date Night: Bali Nusa Indah

20111215-BaliNusaIndah-ricetable.jpg

Rijsttafel [Photos: Garrett Ziegler]

The United Nations might reside on Manhattan's east side, but its foodie equivalent rises up in the west, along Ninth Avenue. Starting in the high 30s and continuing up through 50th Street, this stretch of Ninth boasts Italian, Japanese, classic American, new American, diner American, Ethiopian, Afghan, Druze, Thai, South African, French, pub, Mexican, and Buddhist Vegetarian. These restaurants, as well as the many others in the area, put the "kitchen" in Hell's Kitchen. Bali Nusa Indah stands out for its cuisine (Indonesian), service (exceedingly friendly), and decor (art deco meets bona fide tribal).

Continue reading »

Sugar Rush: Ricotta-Pistachio Turnover at Grandaisy Bakery

20111208-183159-grandaisyturnover.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

The filling of this turnover ($3.75) is composed of three very wonderful components: fresh ricotta cheese, toasted pistachio, and candied citron. The citron is cut into a tiny dice and folded along with the pistachios into the ricotta. Just enough sugar for a faintly sweet finish. The turnover shell is magnificent, flaky and golden with a crisp shatter and more layers than you can count. Crushed pistachios top it off, they get all toasty in the oven and will be the first and last thing you taste with each bit. As you can imagine, a warm turnover is just about as good as it gets. Occasionally I spot the same filling in an open-faced Danish form, but the turnover version is superior in my book.

Grandaisy Bakery

Various locations in NYC
grandaisybakery.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan blogs at Kathy YL Chan, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

First Look: Breakfast Sandwiches at City Sandwich

[Photos: Alice Gao]

When we first tried City Sandwich in Hell's Kitchen, we loved their crisp, sandwich-perfect crusty bread (from a Portuguese bakery in New Jersey), the unusual sausages they often use, and the general construction of their sandwiches: stuffed full but never overstuffed. The Portuguese bent of the menu comes through chef Michael Guerrieri, born in Naples but living for several years in Lisbon and many more in New York. "I have been working with the Portuguese community in New Jersey," the chef says, "to find those delicious ingredients I was surrounded by in Portugal since 1998."

They've recently launched a breakfast menu with a dozen sandwiches (as well as endless options for meat, cheese, and vegetable add-ons), made with either a thin omelet as the egg base or one with just egg whites.

While they initially planned to serve full-sized sandwiches, they've gone with smaller, 5"-ish breakfast sandwiches for $4.50 each. "Hopefully this will get some people off of McDonald's and Dunkin Donuts in the morning," said Guerrieri.

Check at the slideshow for a look at their breakfast sandwiches.

City Sandwich

649 9th Avenue, New York NY (map)
646-684-3943
citysandwichnyc.com

Sugar Rush: Mini Cupcakes at Kyotofu

20111002-173261-kyotofuminicupcakes.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

At Kyotofu, miniature cupcakes are sold in ribbon-wrapped quartets. They're bite-sized versions of their regular cupcakes, ideal for those who want a taste of everything. From left, we start with the Matcha cupcake, a Kyotofu classic, the green tea in full force with the dense, even-crumbed cake. Yuzu-Vanilla is to the right, with yuzu providing a tart bite against the subtle vanilla. The Chocolate Soufflé cupcake borders on fudgy; it's decidedly dark with a crunchy top. And finally, the Apple-Cinnamon is a seasonal number dotted with fresh apple bites with a buttery ring of crumble at the edges.

They're somewhere closer to muffins than cupcakes, not too sweet, more on the quick bread side (not cake-like at all), and free of frosting. But whatever you decide to call it, I can confirm it's delicious.

Kyotofu

705 9th Avenue, New York NY 10036 (map)
212-974-6012
kyotofu-nyc.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

Sugar Rush: Poilâne Pas Pour Les Chiens

20110928-172730-laboitepoilane.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

"Pas Pour Les Chiens" translates to "not for dogs," and indeed these dog biscuit-shaped cookies by Poilâne are created for humans. We brought you to La Bôite à Biscuits for Snow Clouds on Monday, and I think you can tell by now that we're smitten with this 11th Avenue biscuit and spice gallery. What is the link between La Bôite à Biscuits and Poilâne, the beloved Parisian boulangerie? Spices!

The biscuits (baked in Paris and shipped to NYC) are made with an exclusive blend of spices from Lior Lev Sercarz, the owner of La Bôite à Biscuits. It's the only place in city where you can find these Poilâne gems to-go. The buttery biscuits ($15/box) are crisp and then crumble in the mouth; they hint of nutmeg and ground peppercorns and balance a fine line of sweet and savory. For Poilâne aficionados, take note: Lior also carries those famous Poilâne linen bags—no need to trek to Paris to get your fix!

La Bôite à Biscuits

724 11th Avenue, New York NY 10019 (map)
212-247-4407
laboiteny.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

Sugar Rush: Mini Scones at Bis.Co.Latte

20110928-172729-biscolattescones.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

At Bis.Co.Latte in Hell's Kitchen, miniature scones are six for $6 or $1.25 apiece. Given their size, the housemade scones are perfect for the indecisive—buttery little nuggets with a golden surface. They run on the soft and fluffy side, certainly far from the traditional English sort, but nonetheless delicious in their own way.

You'll find ordinary flavors like plain, currant, and chocolate chip. But also look out for seasonal fruit scones; I checked in last week and devoured one each of a still-warm blueberry and strawberry. Every once in awhile you might be lucky enough to come across a special flavor, in fall, you might see pumpkin butter. Go early for this—it's dotted with melty butterscotch chips, the pumpkin flavor round and subtle with hints of cinnamon. Take it home and slather on that clotted cream.

Bis.Co.Latte

667 Tenth Avenue, New York NY 10036 (map)
212-581-3900
biscolatte.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

Lunch Today: Tulcingo del Valle

20110920-tulcingo-tacos.jpg

(L-R) Al pastor taco, al pastor taco, carne asada taco. [Photos: Ben Fishner]

Tulcingo del Valle, on 10th Avenue between 46th and 47th Streets, makes a full range of Mexican classics, but I can only speak to their tacos. Three soft tacos come to an order, with double-layered tortillas for maximum stability, but beware of the strange rules for ordering. You can't order three different types; they've got to be two of one variety and one of the other, or all three the same. On top of that, certain fillings like chorizo and al pastor must be ordered by the pair. Despite these nonsense restrictions, our waitress was very friendly as she guided me to an acceptable combination of 1 carne asada and 2 al pastor tacos ($10.50).

Each taco comes with a healthy amount of meat, topped with chopped onions, cilantro, guacamole and a spicy salsa verde, with more on the side to be applied as needed. Also on the side come lime wedges and sliced radishes. While the carne asada was decent, I was a bigger fan of the al pastor, which had bits of pork grilled to a crisp, foffset by tender little cubes of pineapple. Skip the chips and guacamole ($5.95), which was bland, lacking both heat and salt.

Tulcingo del Valle

665 10th Avenue, New York NY 10036 (map)
212-262-5510
tulcingorestaurant.com

Sugar Rush: Ice Cream at Je & Jo

20110720-162302-jejo-minticecream.jpg

Mint ice cream. [Photograph: Kathy YL Chan]

At recently the opened Je & Jo in Hell's Kitchen, each of the housemade organic ice cream flavors is paired with complementary cookie dough. Packed into fiber cups with pull-tab lids and presented with a wooden spoon, it's decidedly old school chic in the best way possible. The cookie dough isn't chopped and blended into the ice cream, but tucked into the center, like a golden nugget. And for those who worry about eating cookie dough, no worries here—Je & Jo don't use raw eggs in the batter.

For the hottest days of the summer, consider cooling down with their mint ice cream—fresh mint bits are visible both by the eye and taste buds in every perfectly smooth and rich spoonful. When you hit the center, you'll break into the fragrant lemon lavender shortbread cookie dough and be rewarded with its bright flavors. Everything at Je & Jo is fresh made in-house, and it certainly shows in the quality.

Je & Jo

515 W 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 (map)
212-967-4856; jeandjo.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

A Sandwich a Day: The Marche at Sergimmo Salumeria

In this great country of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

20110705-sandwichaday-sergemmosalumeria.JPG

[Photograph: Carrie Vasios]

If you're looking for a great Italian delicatessen but can't stand the crowds or the prices at Eatily or Falai, head over to Sergimmo Salumeria. This Hell's Kitchen newcomer offers a variety of antipasti and panini, but the real draw are the salumi, mozzarella, and ricotta, all of which are made made in-house. (I'll admit I was impressed by the Italian beverage selection, too. Do you want your Limonata in a can, glass bottle, or plastic bottle?)

Though their signature sandwich, the V.I.P, is tasty, I'd say save yourself five bucks and get the Marche ($9) instead. This sandwich starts with a substantial but not overpowering layer of freshly sliced salami: well-spiced, porky, and studded with fennel seeds. The salami is topped with mozzarella—that's creamy, salty, house-made mozzarella—a batch of which is made every two hours. Next up is a layer of artichokes, which are marinated in an herb oil and also available as an antipasto. With all these house-made ingredients piled up it may seem incongruous, but a solid layer of arugula really tied the sandwich together. After the meat, cheese, and oil-bathed artichokes, the greens provided a welcome freshness and peppery, bitter bite. The only thing lacking in this sandwich was the bread, which was a bit dry and when compared with the amazing fillings, just not up to snuff.

Sergimmo Salumeria

456 9th Avenue, New York NY 10018 (map)
212-967-4212

The Vegetarian Option: Queen of Sheba Ethiopian Cuisine

20110527-153999-queen-of-sheba-veg-platter.jpg

[Photographs: Laura Togut]

Queen of Sheba

650 10th Avenue, New York NY 10036 (b/n 45th and 46th; map); 212-397-0610; shebanyc.com
Cuisine: Ethiopian
Veggie Options: 6 appetizers, 8 stews, 1 sampler platter
Cost: Appetizers $3.50-6, stews $9.50-11.50, sampler platter $12.50

Tucked away on the outskirts of the theater district is the non-descript Queen of Sheba—one of a relatively limited number of Ethiopian restaurants in the city. It's not surprising that this cuisine is well-suited for vegetarians—rich stews of lentils, chickpeas, and vegetables are plentiful. But it's the utterly unique food, flavors, and dining experience that makes Ethipoian a must-try for anyone, vegetarian or no.

A glass of Ethiopian honey wine ($7) is certainly worthwhile if you like your wine sweet. Essentially a variant of mead, it's only a bit less sweet than a dessert wine, with a clear honey flavor; very tasty.

Continue reading »

Where to Eat a Pre- or Post-Theater Dinner in NYC

20110520wheretoeat.jpg

Of all the questions visitors to New York have ever posed to me, "Where do I have dinner in the Theater District?" has to be the most common. The theater-dense stretch of Midtown, between 42nd and 54th Streets on the west side of Manhattan, puts you near the lights and sounds of Times Square and the dozens of chain restaurants that reside in it—but better restaurants are a little hard to find. Still, there are plenty of good eats even in this part of town; here's our guide.

Continue reading »

Sugar Rush: Little Sweets and Nibbles at Savory

20110511-151586-Savory-ChocoChipCookies.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

At Savory, the new delivery-only restaurant based in Hell's Kitchen, every order you make is accompanied by a little sweet something. It's a token of appreciation, a little thank you for the order. And it makes all the difference. Expect to find "poppers," the in-house nickname for fresh doughnut holes made to order and lightly glazed. If you're really lucky, you might find a bag with grilled poppers, doughnut holes pressed and grilled crisp with a dusting of sugar. Good old American classics like fudgy melt-in-your-mouth brownies, oatmeal currant cookies, and chewy chocolate chip cookies with not just chips but shards and layers of chocolate are decidedly addictive. Craving one in particular and don't want to take a chance with what type of sweet little extra you'll find in the order? All the desserts mentioned above are available for order on the delivery menu for $4.50 each.

Savory NYC

Currently delivering in Midtown only
Call 212-757-6100 to place an order
savorynyc.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.

Sugar Rush: Mango and Tapioca Sticky Rice at Pure Thai Shophouse

20110511-151583-PureThaiShopHouse-MangoStickyRice.jpg

[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

Mango and sticky rice cooked in coconut milk is a popular Thai dessert often found on the daily dessert board (they serve one type of dessert each day) at Pure Thai Shophouse. But here they make a signature mark on this dessert with a layer of tiny cooked tapioca pearls tucked in the warm bed of coconut sticky rice; it's served with half a ripe and always sweet mango. It's a subtle but small addition that makes it all the more memorable. I asked if they would eventually serve durian, the glorious stinky fruit that often replaces mango as a topping for this dessert. The waitress winked and said, "Not sure if everyone would like that!" So I ask of you, make the durian request at Pure Thai Shophouse and perhaps one day we'll see it listed on the dessert board.

Pure Thai Shophouse

764 9th Avenue, New York NY 10019 (map)
212-581-0999
purethaishophouse.com

About the author: Originally from Honolulu, Kathy YL Chan writes A Passion For Food, where she chronicles her eats and travels adventures between Hawai'i, New York and beyond. She firmly believes that there is always room for dessert.