Manhattan: Flatiron
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 6, 2009 at 3:00 PM
[Photos: Laren Spirer]
On Monday night, the Astor Center hosted its first Tweetup, co-sponsored by Chartreuse and LUPEC NYC. The idea behind the Tweetup was to gather up cocktail enthusiasts, many of whom are on Twitter, for an interactive event/cocktail party. We were fortunate enough to have Jean-Marc Roger, the president of Chartreuse Diffusion, visiting from France, which he only does twice a year. And although he wasn't willing to share the 130-item ingredient list for the age-old spirit, which is still made by monks in the French Alps, he was kind enough to donate yellow and green Chartreuse so the ladies of LUPEC could create Chartreuse-based cocktails for the group.
There were six drinks in all, each with an entirely different flavor profile, but each featuring yellow or green Chartreuse, and sometimes even both. The Bubbly Scribe was a light and easy drink, perfect for kicking of the night, created by Meaghan Dorman, of Raines Law Room. The citrus blends beautifully with the Chartreuse, and the bubbles lift it to a festive level. If you haven't been to Raines, it's a perfect example of the pre-prohibition speakeasy cocktail dens that are dotting the city of late, named after an 1896 New York State tax law passed in an attempt to curb liquor consumption. It's down a few stairs, filled with cozy booths equiped with buzzers for summoning the waitstaff.
The recipe, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 30, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
What better way to end a stressful work week than with Shake Shack's Pumpkin Pie Oh-My? One big cup of custard with a whole slice of pumpkin homemade pumpkin pie whipped right in. And plenty of whipped cream to top. The menu notes that the pumpkin pie is blended with vanilla custard, but they'll be happy to substitute any custard flavor you like. We had it with the salted caramel custard, though vanilla is the best route, should you been keen on letting pumpkin pie shine though.
Shake Shack
Madison Ave and East 23rd Street, Southeast Corner of Madison Square Park, New York, NY 10010 (map)
212-889-6600
366 Columbus Avenue, New York, NY 10024 (at 77th Street; map)
646-747-8770
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 29, 2009 at 11:00 AM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Just two more days to get your crepe fix from the Suzette kiosk at the Madison Square Market (which runs till November 1st). Pictured above, a sweet crepe hot and crisp off the griddle, generously smothered in Nutella, coconut flakes and a dusting of chile powder for heat. A lovely combination to follow up a savory crepe lunch, or perhaps some meaty wonder from the Fatty Crab kiosk. Suzette's crepe selections, both sweet and savory, change on a daily basis—keep an open mind because you never know what surprise is on hand till you arrive.
Posted by Joe DiStefano, October 28, 2009 at 12:00 PM
"The monks do not want this beer being sold outside of Belgium."
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
"People that pray and make beer know what they're doing," Christian Pappanicholas, owner of Resto said to the 30 or so people gathered for the restaurant's Trappist Grand Redux Dinner Monday night. The pious brewers who Pappanicholas praised are the monks who brew beer at seven Trappist monasteries (six in Belgium and one in The Netherlands). I couldn't agree with him more, Trappist beers are some of the most complex and interesting around.
The meal paired these seven Trappist beers with seven courses from chef Bobby Hellen. This cippolini onion and hens of the woods mushroom quiche certainly amused my bouche. It was paired with Rochefort 6 (7.5% ABV), a dark brew from the Abbey of Notre Dame de St. Remy. The savory quiche was a good match for this malty beer, which has plenty of ripe fruit flavor. A great way to start a mid-autumn dinner.
Continue reading »
Posted by Ed Levine, October 27, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Top: Bill's Bar and Burger; bottom, left to right: Shake Shack and RUB. [Photographs: Robyn Lee (Bill's Bar and Burger and Shake Shack) and Nick Solares (RUB)]
Right now, at this moment, it's raining burgers in this burg. And not just any kind of burgers: smashed burgers made from freshly ground, humanely raised beef.
Danny Meyer and company were the pioneers of this style of burger in New York with the now legendary Shake Shack, though the Shackers don't really smash their meat so much as press it down rather gently. In fact, it should be noted that burger lovers owe Meyer a smashing debt of gratitude for the lead role he and his crew have taken in treating the reasonably priced burger with respect and love—and elevating it to serious deliciousness with careful preparation, cheffy techniques, and quality ingredients. But enough about the Shack for now.
Restaurateur Steve Hanson has now stepped up to the (blue) plate with his newly opened smashed burger emporium Bill's Bar and Burger. And RUB's pitmaster Scott Smith and co-owner Andrew Fischel have snuck up on Meyer and Hanson with their burger, which is currently being served only on Monday nights.
A Hamburger Today and Serious Eats have been chronicling Shake Shack's serious deliciousness for years now. More recently in the past few weeks, my man Adam Kuban waxed enthusiastically about Bill's, Kenji Alt told us how to fake the funk of the Shake Shack burger with his amazing Fake Shack post and recipe, and I had a ridiculously fabulous urban burger at RUB.
So what's left, my burger-loving compadres? Why, it's obvious to me: It's the Serious Eats New York–AHT smashed-burger roundup, the ultimate throwdown. Is there one smashed burger in New York City that reigns supreme? Which of these juicy suckers should you pledge your burger-loving allegiance to? Which burger is worth your hard-earned money, your valuable time, and your true burger devotion?
We've got you covered, starting now.
Continue reading »
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 6, 2009 at 3:00 PM
[Photos: Laren Spirer]
On Monday night, the Astor Center hosted its first Tweetup, co-sponsored by Chartreuse and LUPEC NYC. The idea behind the Tweetup was to gather up cocktail enthusiasts, many of whom are on Twitter, for an interactive event/cocktail party. We were fortunate enough to have Jean-Marc Roger, the president of Chartreuse Diffusion, visiting from France, which he only does twice a year. And although he wasn't willing to share the 130-item ingredient list for the age-old spirit, which is still made by monks in the French Alps, he was kind enough to donate yellow and green Chartreuse so the ladies of LUPEC could create Chartreuse-based cocktails for the group.
There were six drinks in all, each with an entirely different flavor profile, but each featuring yellow or green Chartreuse, and sometimes even both. The Bubbly Scribe was a light and easy drink, perfect for kicking of the night, created by Meaghan Dorman, of Raines Law Room. The citrus blends beautifully with the Chartreuse, and the bubbles lift it to a festive level. If you haven't been to Raines, it's a perfect example of the pre-prohibition speakeasy cocktail dens that are dotting the city of late, named after an 1896 New York State tax law passed in an attempt to curb liquor consumption. It's down a few stairs, filled with cozy booths equiped with buzzers for summoning the waitstaff.
The recipe, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 30, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
What better way to end a stressful work week than with Shake Shack's Pumpkin Pie Oh-My? One big cup of custard with a whole slice of pumpkin homemade pumpkin pie whipped right in. And plenty of whipped cream to top. The menu notes that the pumpkin pie is blended with vanilla custard, but they'll be happy to substitute any custard flavor you like. We had it with the salted caramel custard, though vanilla is the best route, should you been keen on letting pumpkin pie shine though.
Shake Shack
Madison Ave and East 23rd Street, Southeast Corner of Madison Square Park, New York, NY 10010 (map)
212-889-6600
366 Columbus Avenue, New York, NY 10024 (at 77th Street; map)
646-747-8770
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, October 29, 2009 at 11:00 AM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Just two more days to get your crepe fix from the Suzette kiosk at the Madison Square Market (which runs till November 1st). Pictured above, a sweet crepe hot and crisp off the griddle, generously smothered in Nutella, coconut flakes and a dusting of chile powder for heat. A lovely combination to follow up a savory crepe lunch, or perhaps some meaty wonder from the Fatty Crab kiosk. Suzette's crepe selections, both sweet and savory, change on a daily basis—keep an open mind because you never know what surprise is on hand till you arrive.
Posted by Joe DiStefano, October 28, 2009 at 12:00 PM
"The monks do not want this beer being sold outside of Belgium."
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
"People that pray and make beer know what they're doing," Christian Pappanicholas, owner of Resto said to the 30 or so people gathered for the restaurant's Trappist Grand Redux Dinner Monday night. The pious brewers who Pappanicholas praised are the monks who brew beer at seven Trappist monasteries (six in Belgium and one in The Netherlands). I couldn't agree with him more, Trappist beers are some of the most complex and interesting around.
The meal paired these seven Trappist beers with seven courses from chef Bobby Hellen. This cippolini onion and hens of the woods mushroom quiche certainly amused my bouche. It was paired with Rochefort 6 (7.5% ABV), a dark brew from the Abbey of Notre Dame de St. Remy. The savory quiche was a good match for this malty beer, which has plenty of ripe fruit flavor. A great way to start a mid-autumn dinner.
Continue reading »
Posted by Ed Levine, October 27, 2009 at 11:00 PM
Top: Bill's Bar and Burger; bottom, left to right: Shake Shack and RUB. [Photographs: Robyn Lee (Bill's Bar and Burger and Shake Shack) and Nick Solares (RUB)]
Right now, at this moment, it's raining burgers in this burg. And not just any kind of burgers: smashed burgers made from freshly ground, humanely raised beef.
Danny Meyer and company were the pioneers of this style of burger in New York with the now legendary Shake Shack, though the Shackers don't really smash their meat so much as press it down rather gently. In fact, it should be noted that burger lovers owe Meyer a smashing debt of gratitude for the lead role he and his crew have taken in treating the reasonably priced burger with respect and love—and elevating it to serious deliciousness with careful preparation, cheffy techniques, and quality ingredients. But enough about the Shack for now.
Restaurateur Steve Hanson has now stepped up to the (blue) plate with his newly opened smashed burger emporium Bill's Bar and Burger. And RUB's pitmaster Scott Smith and co-owner Andrew Fischel have snuck up on Meyer and Hanson with their burger, which is currently being served only on Monday nights.
A Hamburger Today and Serious Eats have been chronicling Shake Shack's serious deliciousness for years now. More recently in the past few weeks, my man Adam Kuban waxed enthusiastically about Bill's, Kenji Alt told us how to fake the funk of the Shake Shack burger with his amazing Fake Shack post and recipe, and I had a ridiculously fabulous urban burger at RUB.
So what's left, my burger-loving compadres? Why, it's obvious to me: It's the Serious Eats New York–AHT smashed-burger roundup, the ultimate throwdown. Is there one smashed burger in New York City that reigns supreme? Which of these juicy suckers should you pledge your burger-loving allegiance to? Which burger is worth your hard-earned money, your valuable time, and your true burger devotion?
We've got you covered, starting now.
Continue reading »
Posted by Ed Levine, October 20, 2009 at 11:00 PM
"We figured out people don't want sandwiches for dinner. Even I don't." —Sisha Ortuzar, 'Wichcraft chef-partner
[Photographs: Robyn Lee]
'Wichcraft
11 East 20th St, New York NY 10003 (b/n Broadway and Fifth, map); 212-780-0577; wichcraftnyc.com
Service: Friendly, accommodating, a little inexperienced
Setting: Simply furnished second floor dining room overlooking 20th Street
Compare It To: Bouchon Bakery
Must-Haves: Grilled breads: charred eggplant and goat cheese, gorgonzola and pears, gruyere, roasted onion, and olives; Salads: shaved brussels sprouts with pine nuts and currants, roasted beef short rib; apple and walnut crisp with caramel ice cream
Cost: $25 for a grilled bread, salad, and dessert
Grade: B+ for grilled breads and salads, B- for meat dishes
To me it was only a matter of time before 'Wichcraft, Tom Colicchio's very solid sandwich bar, started serving dinner. Why? A couple of reasons. Its food has been overseen since its inception by chef-partner Sisha Ortuzar, who like all talented and trained chefs, developed his craft making non-sandwich food; and in these troubled economic times, restaurateurs feel the need to maximize the revenue derived from a given space. So a breakfast and lunch place like 'wichcraft can make the transition to dinner without incurring too many business-breaking incremental costs. And without ever using the word "sandwich" on the menu.
When we arrived at the upstairs dining room we definitely felt like we weren't in a 'wichcraft any more. There were servers, candlelight, china, and other signs of civilized restaurant-dom.
All six of the "on grilled bread" ("don't call them sandwiches") options on the 'wichcraft dinner menu sounded seriously delicious, so the four of us did the only sensible thing: we ordered all of them. Hey, I'm no dummy. When in Rome, and all that—and there we were sitting in a pleasant dining room above a really fine sandwich-making operation. And you know what? It was a smart decision. These people are truly gifted, in the "put toppings on good bread" department.
Continue reading »
Posted by Chichi Wang, October 18, 2009 at 1:00 PM
[Photographs: Robyn Lee]
For nasty bits lovers, eating a meal designed by Fergus Henderson is just about as thrilling as it gets. Henderson, chef and author of the cult classic The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, is renowned for his offal-loving, skin-and-bones approach to cooking. FergusStock '09, Henderson's exchange program that pairs his creative talents with that of the city's best chefs, took place between October 15 and 17 at two different restaurants: The Spotted Pig and The Breslin, the latter just opened by April Bloomfield by Ken Friedman.
We attended Friday night at The Breslin, a space so new that the faint smell of black lacquered paint greeted us as we walked in.
The interior and the feast, after the jump.
View the gallery »
Posted by Carey Jones, October 16, 2009 at 12:30 PM
So much for fall. In New York, it feels like we've gone from shorts to winter coats in just a few days. But fortunately, there are plenty of rainy-day eats to warm you up. Ten of our favorite comfort foods, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Robyn Lee, October 6, 2009 at 4:45 PM
[Flickr: Lucius Kwok]
Mad. Sq. Mark't will open in Madison Square Park this Friday, October 9, and run every day until November 1 from 11 a.m to 8 p.m. The market will feature a shopping area with local, handmade and eco-friendly items, and a Food Square selling produce from Breezy Hill Orchard, and take-away meals from Cabrito, Fatty Crab, Hill Country Barbecue Market, Suzette, Viking Danish Cuisine and Wafels & Dinges. Visit madsqmarkt.com for more information. Food Square will be located at West 24th Street between Fifth Avenue & Broadway (map).
Posted by Ed Levine, September 22, 2009 at 11:00 PM
"You will not speak to your lunch companions until you are finished with it."
Photographs: Robyn Lee
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Avenue, New York NY 10010 (at East 24th Street; map); 212-925-3797 elevenmadisonpark.com
Service: Faultless, friendly, and accommodating
Setting: Open, airy, elegant half of the Met Life Building lobby with well-spaced tables
Compare It To: Gramercy Tavern, Jean-Georges, Craft, Del Posto
Must-Haves: Sweet corn chowder with Nova Scotia lobster and bacon, corn and bacon soup, gougeres, pork
Cost: $28 for two courses plus drink, tax, and tip
Grade: A
When, like me, you've spent the better part of fifty years searching for the cheapest form of deliciousness possible, it's hard to just swallow hard and accept the fact that eating at four-star restaurants is, well, expensive. Really expensive.
So, until I ate the insanely reasonable $28 two-course lunch a number of times at Eleven Madison Park recently, the only place I could send serious eaters in search of a four-star midday meal at neighborhood restaurant prices was Jean-Georges--where you can still, as of this moment, buy your four-star meal one course at a time, at $14 a plate.
But Jean-Georges looks and feels like a formal French restaurant, albeit one that serves resolutely contemporary and often forward-thinking food. So in spite of the fact that I am known there (hey, I can sniff out food bargains in any class) and I am greeted extremely warmly whenever I go, I have been searching for a less formal, slightly less fancypants alternative.
Enter Eleven Madison Park, a restaurant I have always liked, often admired, but never fallen in love with... until now. Why now? Because in a strange way I think that the lower-priced lunch menu has brought out the earthier, simpler aspects of Daniel Humm's cooking. And because, let's face it, I love a bargain, and $28 for two courses, an amuse, and some gougeres thrown in for good measure is, relatively speaking, a steal. Strangely enough, that fact was buried in Frank Bruni's recent four-star review (it was only in the box).
Twenty-eight bucks for food that ranges from very good to breathtakingly delicious, served in a gorgeous and resolutely adult room that manages to be quiet and full of energy at the same time? I am so there. And serious eaters, you should be, too.
Continue reading »
Posted by Laren Spirer, September 18, 2009 at 2:30 PM
"I felt pampered and relaxed—for the same price as a cocktail at any high-end bar in the city."
[Photograph: Robyn Lee]
After reading the New York Times's four-star review of Eleven Madison Park and gawking at the cocktail recipes from Mix Shake Stir: Recipes from Danny Meyer's Acclaimed New York City Restaurants, I was on a mission to find out firsthand what the bar experience was like at a four-star restaurant.
A meal might have to wait until I can get a reservation, but a drink at the bar had no such limitations. On a recent Monday night, I strolled in to the majestic space, perched on a leather stool at the polished-wood bar, and was greeted by Leo Robitschek, the head bartender. He handed me a menu and, as I was perusing the selections, poured me a glass of water, placed a silver dish with three wells filled with bar snacks: citrusy cured olives, waffle potato chips, and mixed nuts.
The cocktail menu was divided into several sections, including Light Spirited and Dark Spirited. One of the latter caught my eye immediately—the à la Louisiane. This cocktail has a bit of a history, and once I got talking to Leo, he confided that he'd given the original recipe an updated tweak or two—changing the proportions a bit, and livening it up with two types of bitters, in the style of a Manhattan. Leo's cocktail making was beautiful and precise; he used a gorgeous glass pitcher in lieu of a pint glass, and a long, elegant mixing spoon with a small trident on the back end.
The recipe, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, September 17, 2009 at 3:00 PM
There's just today and one more Thursday in the month of September to get your taste (your fix?) of Balsamic-Fig custard from Shake Shack. The custard is equal parts balsamic and fig in flavor, none too strong, both pleasant and mild. Much less exciting that I had hoped for, but satisfying nonetheless. My only request? For chunks of fresh figs to be mixed in à la their Coffee and Doughnuts flavor.
Shake Shack
Madison Avenue and East 23rd St., Madison Square Park, New York, NY 10010 (map)
212-889-6600
www.shakeshackny.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, August 4, 2009 at 6:20 PM
Bar Breton's ice cream cart made its debut this morning—and I don't know about you, but I was pretty darn excited. We have ice cream carts all over Brooklyn, Tribeca, and Soho, but not one in the lower Midtown area. I stopped in around 2:00 pm this afternoon to find a steady stream of customers. First thing to note is the price—$2 for a small. I can't remember the last time I saw ice cream being sold for $2 a cup in this city.
The small includes two scoops of ice cream, and doesn't limit you to just one flavor. Pastry chef Lindsey, the woman behind the creations, was there out serving ice cream today. Across the board, the texture is smooth, slightly softer than the norm, and oh-so-lovingly rich.
There were six ice cream and two sorbet flavors on the menu today, and one in particular caught my attention: Tarragon! I know of not one place in the city that does tarragon ice cream; as a huge fan of the herb, I knew it would be on my immediate must-have list. I tried a tarragon and hazelnut combination with fresh strawberries and cornflakes. They pair so well together—tarragon with its slight licorice touch and the full bodied nuttiness of hazelnut.
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Posted by Grace Kang, July 24, 2009 at 4:30 PM
Oh, lemon cream. You're a delicious glue for a cake made out of crêpes, but when that cake is only about one-inch by five-inches, I don't get nearly enough of you. Why serve a dessert where the scoop of admittedly refreshing crème fraîche ice cream is so much bigger than the cake portion? I came to my last crêpe cake bite at Bar Breton and realized I still had a whole half scoop of ice cream left! Something's seriously wonky with the ratio here.
Still, that doesn't mean I didn't appreciate the delicate crunch of the lightly caramelized sugar topping the cake, or the oh-so-lightly sauteed blueberries in jus. I just wanted some more lemon cream, that's all.
Bar Breton
254 5th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 (b/n 28th and 29th Streets; map)
212-213-4999
Posted by Erin Zimmer, June 15, 2009 at 1:00 PM
Every Monday during the summer, Beppe offers 50 percent off all wine bottles. 45 East 22nd Street (b/n 5th Avenue and Avenue of the Americas; map); 212-982-8422.
Posted by Robyn Lee, June 12, 2009 at 4:30 PM
The mint chocolate chip custard from Shake Shack (Saturday's flavor) isn't as interesting or "blow your mind" awesome as some of their other flavors [PDF] but it's a classic flavor that's done well. Alas, as you can see form the sparse speckles in the photo, it could use more chocolate chips, a sentiment fellow Serious Eater Kathryn Yu expressed to me. The chocolate chips aren't typical bits of solid chocolate, more like little crunchy chocolate balls that, if given the chance, I would blanket the custard with. Even better would be if the custard were flavored with real mint—perhaps an idea for the future.
Shake Shack
Madison Square Park, E 23rd Street and Madison Avenue, New York NY 10010 (map)
212-889-6600
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, June 10, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Brownies (along with banana pudding and hot fudge sundaes and cannolis), are one of my many weakness. A while back, I received a jar of brownie mix from Spoon Catering in the mail. The mix baked up very well—dark and fudgey with a crackly surface. So when I found myself on 20th Street the other day, I couldn't help but stop into tbsp, the retail storefront of Spoon Catering, hoping to find a brownie as swoon-worthy as the mix.
Brownies run $2 for a 3-inch square, plain only, no walnut studded numbers for us nut lovers. The store bought brownies bore that same thick crackling surface, only with an interior that was less chocolatey, and leaned more towards cake than fudge, unlike the mix. Verdict? You’re better off with the mix, especially when you can eat it hot, straight from your oven in all its ooey chocolate-rich glory.
tbsp
17 West 20th Street, New York NY 10011 (b/n 5th and 6th Avenue; map)
646-230-7000
spoonnyc.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, April 13, 2009 at 5:00 PM
Eleven Madison Park rolled out a new line of macarons on their dessert menu last week. The flavors range from the curious to the rather delicious.
From left to right in the above photo: hazelnut and brown butter, peanut butter and jelly, chocolate-banana, candied violet, black olive and white chocolate, pistachio-rose, and toasted sesame.
Peanut butter holds a bright smidgen of jelly in the center, black olive and white chocolate is a memorable combination with a savory tang, but the pistachio-rose was my personal favorite. Flavors are among the most interesting we've seen recently, though its tiny size—smaller than a typical macaron, but larger than the ones served at Jean Georges—make it impossible to achieve macaron perfection in terms of texture. As far as the classic macarons in this city go, Itzy Bitzy Patisserie still holds the crown (here are the special flavors for April).
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Avenue, New York NY 10010 (map)
212-889-0918
elevenmadisonpark.com
Related: Where to Find Macarons
Posted by Erin Zimmer, March 30, 2009 at 6:00 PM
Three tasty bar items at BLT Fish Shack ($9 each): olive oil tuna tartine with tapenade and quail eggs; red snapper fish tacos with avocado, and queso fresco; and pork and shrimp sliders with spicy mayo. Available between 5:30 and 11 p.m. daily. 21 West 17th Street (map); 212-691-8888
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, March 18, 2009 at 4:30 PM
In February, Ed posted about Verē Chocolate, founded by Kathy Moskal. Kathy's chocolate factory right off Broadway on 27th Street (a two-minute walk from Shake Shack, I might add) is opened to the public Monday through Thursday from 12 to 5 p.m., and Fridays from 12 to 6 p.m.
Drop in during these hours for a little tasting of their house-made dark chocolate confections as well as a little history of Verē. Here you also have a chance to purchase from their full array of sweets, including their lines of dark chocolate bars, organic chocolate bars, caramels, and other chocolate snacks. My favorites, after the jump.
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