Manhattan: Chelsea

Sugar Rush: Pumpkin Pecan Knot at Amy's Bread

20091004AmysBreadPumPecanKnot.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

New to the range of goods at Amy's Bread, fitting in right with the season, is the Pumpkin Pecan Knot. A light yeast bread, with delicate spice, a mild pumpkin flavor, and handful of crushed pecans. It's just dandy toasted with a smother of softened butter, or nibbled away plain throughout the day. Buy the bread as a ring and it's sure to last you breakfast for the entire week. Or if you grow easily bored of flavors like myself, the bread is sold as cut wedges for $1.75 apiece.

Amy's Bread

Various Locations in NYC (map)
amysbread.com

More on Joe: Pumpkin Muffins

20091027JoeCoffeeBreadAlonePumpkinMuffin.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

I was waiting in line at Joe's the other day when I spotted this pumpkin muffin baked by Bread Alone. And considering my goal to hunt down every delicious pumpkin sweet in the city, I couldn't pass this one up.

It's hearty, with a slightly crunchy surface, dotted with toasted pumpkin seeds (how awesome would it be if they also salted the pumpkin just a tiny, tiny bit?). Tasty, but not among the best, with a somewhat crumbly interior. Glad I gave it a try, but I'll be sticking with my standard chocolate cream cheese when it comes to my morning muffin at Joe's.

Joe the Art of Coffee

Various Locations in NYC (map)
joetheartofcoffee.com

Sugar Rush: tbsp's Banana Muffin

20091023tbspbananamuffin.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

Unexpected surprises are the best. You know, when something looks just all right, but tastes awesome. Case in point: the banana muffin from tbsp's kiosk at the entrance of the Highline. Small, yes. A mini breakfast, an afternoon break, a sweet used to bribe your boyfriend into running an errand. There are many possibilities for this wondrous muffin, tender and a bit sticky. No crunchy surface, which I usually love in a good muffin, but did not miss in this case. It's packed with mashed bananas and chunks of fresh bananas. Plush and not overly sweet, I'm adding this to my list of go-to muffins.

tbsp

17 West 20th Street, New York, NY 10011 (map)
646-230-7000
spoonnyc.com

Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Cheesecake

20091015cheesecake.jpg

[Photos: Robyn Lee]

Our Top Five

  • The Winner: Two Little Red Hens
  • Mona Lisa Pastry Shoppe
  • Lady M Cake Boutique
  • Cheesecake Factory
  • Fairway Market

In the pantheon of iconic New York foods, not much outranks the proud cheesecake. Whether after dinner at Luger's, by the round at Eileen's, or shipped across the country by Junior's, New York cheesecakes are a force to be reckoned with. The cheesecake is a dessert that's perfect in its simplicity. A silky, creamy base, an optional thin crust—and that's it.

What makes a first-class cheesecake? It's smooth and creamy, just sweet enough, with a hint of tartness. If there's a crust, it adds something extra without overwhelming the taste of the cheesecake itself. And it's rich enough to seem a bit decadent, without going down like a cement pour. You should want to keep eating—at least, for more than one bite.

So we canvassed the boroughs for New York's best cheesecake, arrived at our finalists, and assembled our panel of crack tasters. All cakes were tasted blind, brought to the same temperature, in similar-size slices. We even scuffed up the edges of the more cosmetically privileged. And we had our tasters start with different samples, to cancel out the effects of palate fatigue—a real concern, after 14 cheesecakes. As it turns out, the first bite wasn't always the best bite.

(For the purposes of fair comparison, we went only with bakery cheesecakes, rather than restaurant ones. We also excluded all flavored and ricotta-based cheesecakes—stay tuned for later taste-tests.)

So after countless miles traveled, bites considered, and calories consumed, we've arrived at our winners. Our favorites, our surprise showings, and the best cheesecake in New York—after the jump.

Continue reading »

Chelsea Brewing Co. Hosts Manhattan's Largest Cask Ale Fest This Weekend

20091010BeerOverview.jpg

[Photographs: Hideki Kato]

Can't get into the New York City Wine and Food Festival this weekend? Be of good cheer, for there's another festival in Chelsea this weekend that's sure to lift your spirits: Chelsea Brewing Company's Cask Ale Festival. With 40 casks being poured, it's Manhattan's largest such event. On Friday morning along with several other members of the beer geek media, I sampled some of the brews.

First, a short lesson for all the non-beer geeks out there. A cask ale, or real ale, is "a name for a draught beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide," according to the U.K.-based Campaign for Real Ale. In other words, it's a beer that's still "alive" and is served at cellar temperature.

I only tried 13 of the brews on offer. It's not that I'm a lightweight, but I had no desire to pass out into my hand-pulled noodle soup later in the day. Here's a look at some of the brews I had.

Continue reading »

Sugar Rush: Pumpkin Pecan Knot at Amy's Bread

20091004AmysBreadPumPecanKnot.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

New to the range of goods at Amy's Bread, fitting in right with the season, is the Pumpkin Pecan Knot. A light yeast bread, with delicate spice, a mild pumpkin flavor, and handful of crushed pecans. It's just dandy toasted with a smother of softened butter, or nibbled away plain throughout the day. Buy the bread as a ring and it's sure to last you breakfast for the entire week. Or if you grow easily bored of flavors like myself, the bread is sold as cut wedges for $1.75 apiece.

Amy's Bread

Various Locations in NYC (map)
amysbread.com

More on Joe: Pumpkin Muffins

20091027JoeCoffeeBreadAlonePumpkinMuffin.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

I was waiting in line at Joe's the other day when I spotted this pumpkin muffin baked by Bread Alone. And considering my goal to hunt down every delicious pumpkin sweet in the city, I couldn't pass this one up.

It's hearty, with a slightly crunchy surface, dotted with toasted pumpkin seeds (how awesome would it be if they also salted the pumpkin just a tiny, tiny bit?). Tasty, but not among the best, with a somewhat crumbly interior. Glad I gave it a try, but I'll be sticking with my standard chocolate cream cheese when it comes to my morning muffin at Joe's.

Joe the Art of Coffee

Various Locations in NYC (map)
joetheartofcoffee.com

Sugar Rush: tbsp's Banana Muffin

20091023tbspbananamuffin.jpg

[Photo: Kathy Chan]

Unexpected surprises are the best. You know, when something looks just all right, but tastes awesome. Case in point: the banana muffin from tbsp's kiosk at the entrance of the Highline. Small, yes. A mini breakfast, an afternoon break, a sweet used to bribe your boyfriend into running an errand. There are many possibilities for this wondrous muffin, tender and a bit sticky. No crunchy surface, which I usually love in a good muffin, but did not miss in this case. It's packed with mashed bananas and chunks of fresh bananas. Plush and not overly sweet, I'm adding this to my list of go-to muffins.

tbsp

17 West 20th Street, New York, NY 10011 (map)
646-230-7000
spoonnyc.com

Serious Eats Finds New York's Best Cheesecake

20091015cheesecake.jpg

[Photos: Robyn Lee]

Our Top Five

  • The Winner: Two Little Red Hens
  • Mona Lisa Pastry Shoppe
  • Lady M Cake Boutique
  • Cheesecake Factory
  • Fairway Market

In the pantheon of iconic New York foods, not much outranks the proud cheesecake. Whether after dinner at Luger's, by the round at Eileen's, or shipped across the country by Junior's, New York cheesecakes are a force to be reckoned with. The cheesecake is a dessert that's perfect in its simplicity. A silky, creamy base, an optional thin crust—and that's it.

What makes a first-class cheesecake? It's smooth and creamy, just sweet enough, with a hint of tartness. If there's a crust, it adds something extra without overwhelming the taste of the cheesecake itself. And it's rich enough to seem a bit decadent, without going down like a cement pour. You should want to keep eating—at least, for more than one bite.

So we canvassed the boroughs for New York's best cheesecake, arrived at our finalists, and assembled our panel of crack tasters. All cakes were tasted blind, brought to the same temperature, in similar-size slices. We even scuffed up the edges of the more cosmetically privileged. And we had our tasters start with different samples, to cancel out the effects of palate fatigue—a real concern, after 14 cheesecakes. As it turns out, the first bite wasn't always the best bite.

(For the purposes of fair comparison, we went only with bakery cheesecakes, rather than restaurant ones. We also excluded all flavored and ricotta-based cheesecakes—stay tuned for later taste-tests.)

So after countless miles traveled, bites considered, and calories consumed, we've arrived at our winners. Our favorites, our surprise showings, and the best cheesecake in New York—after the jump.

Continue reading »

Chelsea Brewing Co. Hosts Manhattan's Largest Cask Ale Fest This Weekend

20091010BeerOverview.jpg

[Photographs: Hideki Kato]

Can't get into the New York City Wine and Food Festival this weekend? Be of good cheer, for there's another festival in Chelsea this weekend that's sure to lift your spirits: Chelsea Brewing Company's Cask Ale Festival. With 40 casks being poured, it's Manhattan's largest such event. On Friday morning along with several other members of the beer geek media, I sampled some of the brews.

First, a short lesson for all the non-beer geeks out there. A cask ale, or real ale, is "a name for a draught beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide," according to the U.K.-based Campaign for Real Ale. In other words, it's a beer that's still "alive" and is served at cellar temperature.

I only tried 13 of the brews on offer. It's not that I'm a lightweight, but I had no desire to pass out into my hand-pulled noodle soup later in the day. Here's a look at some of the brews I had.

Continue reading »

Happy Oktober: Sausages and Beer at Klee Brasserie

20091001beer.jpg

[Photo: Erin Zimmer]

From today through the end of October, Klee Brasserie will have a rotating roster of Oktoberfest beers and Austrian-style sausages (along some pretty fantastic oven-hot pretzels). Our favorites, after a first taste? The Emmenthaler-studded Käse Krainer and the taut, spicy Beef Wieners.

Klee Brasserie

200 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-633-8033
kleebrasserie.com

Dallas BBQ: Boldly Going Where No Other Food Writer Has Gone Before

"I'm not going to spoil the party. I just don't know that I need to return any time soon."

20090929-dallasbbq-intro.jpg

[Photos: Robyn Lee and Erin Zimmer]

Dallas BBQ

261 Eighth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (at 23rd Street; map); 212-462-0001; dallasbbq.com
Other locations: See website
Service: Friendly and familiar the first time, off-putting and weird the next
Setting: A big diner with cacti, a concrete ceiling, and reasonably well-spaced tables
Compare It To: Applebee's, Chili's, TGI Friday's
Must-Haves: Hot Dog, Onion Loaf, Chicken Tenders, and yes, a big ol' blue drink
Cost: Twenty bucks will get you enough food for two to share and one of those drinks
Grade: C+

Almost every day I pass by Dallas BBQ, and each and every time it's packed. Lunch, dinner, even in between. Even more interestingly, it's packed with an incredibly diverse set of New Yorkers, of every race and ethnicity imaginable. All these folks appear to be having an insanely good time. In fact, it looks like they're having a big old house party—complete with super-cheap humongous meals, made up mostly of grilled or fried or barbecued meat and foot-high plates of fried accompaniments, and moat-sized multi-colored drinks (with umbrellas) to wash it all down.

Hundreds of people eat at this restaurant every day, and savor every last fried or grilled bite. But nary a food critic or food writer or blogger among them. Until now. The serious eaters hit Dallas BBQ en masse last week, and I for one survived with my palate intact... and my stomach full for a full week afterwards.

Continue reading »

Raising the Bar: "The Sandwich of the Decade" at El Quinto Pino

"Airy and crisp, the sandwich tasted like the sea."

20090903elquintcollage.jpg

El Quinto Pino is known for the sea urchin sandwich that Peter Meehan of the New York Times declared the "sandwich of the year" in 2007, and has been extolled by bloggers such as Andrea Strong on the Strong Buzz. It's far from a undiscovered gem, but located on a quiet street off of Ninth Avenue in Chelsea, it might as well have been for me.

In fact, on my way to the tiny tapas bar, I mistakenly went to Txikito—another tapas bar a few meters away which the former chef of El Quinto Pino, Alex Raij, now heads—and sat at the bar for several minutes before I recognized the waitress from my dinner at Txikito two weeks ago.

I could have stayed, since I had enjoyed my last meal there—but I was on a mission, it was 2009, and I needed to eat the "sandwich of the year," albeit two years late. I hopped off the bar stool and in a few minutes I was at El Quinto Pino.

Continue reading »

Taco Trio from The Brothers L&C Latin Fast Food Truck

20090819-tacos-tacos.jpg

20090819-tacos-truck.jpgThe Brothers L&C Latin Fast Food Truck on 18th Street and 6th Avenue doesn't seem to specialize in tacos—their printed menu mostly consists of sandwiches, breakfast goods, and pastries—but how could you resist their hand-written, fluorescent green sign touting "SPECIAL TACOS"? I couldn't. And choosing tacos was easy since they only have three kinds—beef, pork, and chicken. You can get one for $2.50 or three for $7 (hell yeah, save 50 cents). I went for all three.

Continue reading »

Sugar Rush: Bakery Bits at Three Tarts

20090803bakerybits.jpg

I slipped into Three Tarts just as they opened at 11:00 am on Sunday morning, hoping to grab an ice cream sandwich for brunch-on-the-go. (When you're in your twenties, and have a job that takes you all over the city all day and night, it's perfectly acceptable to have ice cream prior to noon.)

I made my way to the back of the shop and peeked into the freezer case. $4.25 squares of ice cream sandwiches, in sublime flavors such as green tea ice cream with lemon cake. I slid the case open to reach for some chocolate on chocolate action—but then! I spotted something infinitely more awesome. "Bakery bits."

I asked the woman behind the counter what the origin of these bits might be. Remember Chinatown cake bags from Hon Cafe? This was the same idea—only the ice cream sandwich version.

Leftovers ends, corners, and bits from cut ice cream sandwiches are jammed into plastic containers and sold for $2.50. For just over half the price, you get far more ice cream sandwich for your money—in a fork-friendly, easy-travel version. I spotted cake bit containers in all the ice cream sandwich flavors, including one which coupled chocolate cake with both sorbet and ice cream. I settled for a goat's milk ice cream with a tart strawberry-balsamic sorbet. Swoon!

Three Tarts
164 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-462-4392
threetarts.com‎

Sugar Rush: Blueberry Financier at La Bergamote

20090728-sugarrush-fiancer.png

The financier at La Bergamote in Chelsea, with its apricot-glazed top and line of studded blueberries, is far from plain and simple. But when you're craving that classic French almond flour-based sweet but looking for something a little different, La Bergamote's fruited versions are worth a visit. Fine chopped almonds make their way into each lightly sweetened bite, along with that intoxicating scent of browned butter. At $2.65 each, the financiers also come in raspberry and mandarin orange.

La Bergamote

169 9th Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-627-9010
labergamotenyc.com

The 24-Hour Fruit Vendors in Chelsea

"Levent is actually part of a produce vending dynasty—he is a third-generation fruit hawker, following the footsteps of his grandfather and father in Turkey."

20090720-fruitvendor1.jpg

Levent working around 3:30 p.m.

Every day is a "CRAZY DAY" for Levent, a 24-year-old Turkish-born fruit vendor at the corner of 27th Street and Eighth Avenue. Sometimes it's Crazy Berry Day (two tubs for $5), other days it's Crazy Mango Day (four for $4). Crazy Eggplant Day isn't as common, but always a possibility. The craziness is declared on cardboard signage, sometimes with added smiley face art, all over the cart.

20090720-fruitvendor2.jpg

But if you are spacing out while walking by, Levent (who declined to give his last name) will find a way to make eye contact and inform you. One minute you're rocking out to the iPod, the next minute you're the owner of three bananas. He might have been a car salesman in another lifetime.

20090720-fruitvendor4.jpg

Around 10:30 p.m.

Levent and his business partners (about four cousins and friends, also from Turkey) keep produce prices low for FIT students, residents in the housing complexes across the street, and the cabbies driving up Eighth Avenue at all hours. With Serious Eats world headquarters just around the corner, we've been seeing a lot of Levent this year (the fruit cart didn't exist last summer), who doesn't seem to sleep. Ever.

Continue reading »

Best Bites: RUB BBQ Burnt Ends

20090702-RUBburntends.jpg

I've said it before and I'll say it again: New York barbecue joints all seem to have one meat that they nail, one dish that is clearly superior to every other meat they cook low and slow. At RUB BBQ that one dish is the burnt ends, or the crazy smoky burnt ends of the fatty half of the brisket. RUB's burnt ends are alternately meaty and fatty, so if you're fat-phobic you should order something else.

Of course if you're fat-phobic you probably wouldn't have walked into RUB or any other barbecue joint in the first place. Don't worry, though. There's plenty of meat, both crusty exterior pieces and tender interior ones, on these burnt ends, and they give you so much Adam and I happily split the burnt ends dinner. If you eat them that way, they are even a bargain.

Continue reading »

A Guide to the Best Blueberry Muffins in New York City

20090630-blueberries.jpg

This city is flooded with blueberry muffins. Plain ones, sugar-dusted numbers, big ones, itty bitty ones, and others still, paired with everything from bran to corn. We loved some, hated others, and passed on a few. Our conclusion? There's one we can honestly call "the best" and many others which are simply great and worth a detour. In the end, blueberry muffins, like most sweets, are totally subjective. Taste is personalized, so we've made sure to included seriously delicious muffins on all ends of the spectrum.

Where to begin? See the list after the jump for our picks for the city's finest blueberry muffins.

Continue reading »

Sugar Rush: Chocolate Pudding in a Mason Jar at Sarabeth's

20090624-sarabeths-sugarrush.jpg

While waiting in line to order a plethora of cookies at at the Chelsea Market location of Sarabeth's Bakery, I couldn't help but spot, and then fall for, a mason jar filled with chocolate pudding. The pudding is chilled just so, lush and full of that chocolaty wonder. It's certainly swoon-worthy, though I surely wished it was a dark instead of milk chocolate pudding. Thick and creamy in texture, the pudding is smooth through and through, almost reaching the thickness of mousse. Top it off with ploofs of fresh whipped cream, a pile of chocolate shavings, and there is little to complain about. Plus you get to keep the mason jar!

Sarabeth's Bakery

Chelsea Market 75 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (at 15th Street; map)
212-989-2424

Smoking Ribs With Rub BBQ Pit Master Scott Smith

"It has a surprisingly vivid pink hue, almost like pastrami, and the smoke appears to have permeated all the way to the bone."

2009-06-19-RUBRIBS-Ribs.jpg

2009-06-19-RUBRIBS-scott.jpg

"As soon as the army figures out you can do something they reassign you," chuckles Scott Smith, former Army Ranger and current pitmaster at Righteous Urban Barbecue (RUB). Smith worked in professional kitchens during high school in Trumansburg, New York, and couldn't decide whether to continue his endeavors by attending the Culinary Institute of America or joining the army after graduating.

He chose the latter and while he did end up cooking in the army—French fries for an aircraft carrier full of rangers stationed off Haiti, in one case—he generally prefers to adopt a "don't ask, don't tell" policy about the quality of ingredients and menu options. After leaving the army, Smith helped out a friend with a roadside barbecue shack that became so successful that it morphed in to a full-fledged restaurant called Spike's Bar-BQ.

Smith has been cooking barbecue ever since with over a decade of experience under his belt. He became pitmaster at RUB in 2005 (when it opened) after meeting owner Andrew Fischel at a seminar given by Paul "The Baron of Barbecue" Kirk, a partner in RUB. The beauty of the private sector, as opposed to the army, is that when you do something, and you do it well, you generally get to keep doing it. Thus Smith gets to turn out rack after masterful rack of ribs coated in Paul Kirk's secret rub and smoked over hickory. After the jump, a step-by-step look at how he does it.

Continue reading »

Two Chelsea Breakfast Dishes Worth A Walk at Trestle on Tenth

20090619-trestle-eggs.jpg

There are two dishes on the breakfast menu at Ralf Kuettel's Trestle on Tenth that are so seriously delicious I'm thinking that his native Switzerland must be one of the world's great undiscovered breakfast destinations.

Just typing the following dish makes me hungry: duck confit hash with poached eggs and sauce Béarnaise (13.50). Crispy pieces of duck confit, crunchy hash brown cubes, and perfect poached eggs, topped by more than a dollop of spot-on Béarnaise sauce. What more could a serious eater ask for?

20090619-trestle-pancake.jpg

Well, if your breakfast hankerings run to sweets, there's always this: Apfel Baeckeoffe with vanilla whipped cream ($10.50). The menu description—thick cinnamon-flavored baked pancake with roasted apples—makes it sound kind of humdrum. It isn't. In fact, it is an oversized apple dessert disguised as a breakfast menu item. Definitely not light, but plenty satisfying.

One last thing: I haven't been to Trestle on Tenth for brunch, but there's an item on its brunch menu that begs to be eaten: Bure Rösti, Swiss bacon-onion potato hash with housemade pork sausage, melted cheese, and two fried eggs. OMG.

Trestle on Tenth

242 10th Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at 24th Street; map)
212-645-5659
trestleontenth.com

Related: Trestle on Tenth: Swiss-Inspired Cooking with Lots of Pork, Cheese, and Flavor

L'Arte del Gelato in Chelsea Market Reopens Thursday, June 25, in a Bigger Space

20090616-larte.jpg

20090617-icecreamtrashcan.jpg

"Tear. I'm not good enough anymore."

The little L'Arte del Gelato counter in Chelsea Market that lives inside the Bowery Kitchen supply store can be hard to spot behind the rows of Ball jars and juicers. But next Thursday, June 25—that is, if the current pile of concrete somehow transforms in time—a new slick countertop will open around the corner, at the end of the hallway. In addition to the 22 flavors, they'll make cones fresh like they do at the West Village location (they also hinted at coffee sometime in the future). Yes, that means the potent brownie aromas coming from Fat Witch Bakery must fight the just-ironed-out waffle cone fumes coming from this end. Swing by on Thursday for free scoops in honor of the expansion.

RIP the ice cream-shaped trash cans of the current space. Apparently it's too reminiscent of the old logo and won't go with the new look.

L'Arte del Gelato

Near Chelsea Market's 10th Avenue entrance between 15th and 16th Street
212-366-0570

Sugar Rush: Casadiella at El Quinto Pino

20090605-sugarrush.jpg

The only dessert at El Quinto Pino, and a fine ending to the tapas meal at that, is called the Casadiella. A trio of fried anise pillows drizzled with honey and dusted in powdered sugar. Each two-bite nugget is tightly filled with chopped toasted walnuts and served straight out of the fryer. The dessert isn't listed on the menu. You have to ask the waiter, but you'll be mighty glad you did.

El Quinto Pino

401 W 24th Street # 1, New York NY 10011 (at 9th Avenue; map)
212-206-6900
elquintopinonyc.com

Sugar Rush: Brownie Sundae at Empire Diner

20090528-browniesundae.jpg

Last night, an ice cream craving hit me and Robyn. We also craved a brownie, so together, we were after a brownie sundae. We racked our brains for nearby options (we were at the Frying Pan in Chelsea) but short of running to Billy's Bakery for a brownie and then dashing over to Shake Shack for vanilla custard for a makeshift sundae, nothing came to mind. Until we asked Ed.

"Empire Diner!" he declared. So off we went, settling our bums on one of the outdoor tables on 10th Avenue. For $8, the brownie sundae buys you a hefty portion, easily sharable between three normal eaters. A gigantic fudgy brownie square is served hot with a scoops of Häagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream, ploofs of whipped cream (unfortunately not fresh but canned), hot fudge, and piles and piles of almonds and walnuts. Our only complaint? Far too many nuts!!

Empire Diner

210 10th Avenue # 1, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-243-2736