Manhattan
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 20, 2009 at 4:00 PM
[Photos: Highlands; Laren Spirer]
In my mid-20's, I used to think all Scotch was the same. It was something that old men drank, and something that my male friends were "learning to drink." Every time I tasted it, all I got was heavy peat and smoke, so I assumed that's what Scotch was all about.
Flash forward to the present. Not only have I matured greatly since then (or so I'd like to think), but during the course of my spirits education—both formal and informal—I have learned just how wrong I was back then.
Highlands, New York's West Village Scottish bar, is a perfect place to educate yourself about Scotch whiskies. Take some time to taste and learn which ones suit your personal preferences; they've chosen about thirty, and compliled brief tasting notes on each, but their selection goes beyond the printed list. That said, Highlands isn't all about the Scotch. The comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere lends itself to a visit just to perch at the bar, no matter the type of tipple you prefer. They offer beer, wine, and a handful of seasonal cocktails, as well as modern Scottish-influenced small plates, like a lamb sausage roll and House Cured Loch Duart Salmon (haggis is reported to be coming in the not-too-distant future).
A recipe for my favorite Scotch cocktail, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 20, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
With the notable exception of Go Go Curry there is probably no Japanese restaurant in Manhattan more obsessed with New York Yankees left-fielder Hideki "Godzilla" Matsui than Go Sushi. Sports pages featuring Matsui are pasted above the sushi bar at this Saint Mark's izakaya, whose name means "five" in Japanese. To honor the newly minted MVP who has worn the number 55 since his days at the Yomiuri Giants, and in recognition of the Yanks World Series win, Go introduced the Yankee Roll. My team loyalties—such as they are—lie with the Mets, but only because I love Queens. Nevertheless, I decided to cast aside my loyalty to the home team and try the $5.50 creation.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 20, 2009 at 1:30 PM
The menu description doesn't do this dessert justice: "acorn squash slowly cooked in syrup served with vanilla scented whipped cream." The dessert is by Natalia Machado, the pastry chef at Tribeca's Industria Argentina, and it's named Zapallos en Almibar ($9), an Argentinian classic with a rich history, not often served outside the home. Acorn squash is cubed, soaked in pickling lime, then cooked for hours in syrup.
The result? Glossy, almost translucent cuts of squash, with an crackle crisp exterior and innards, a soft and creamy affair. The contrast of two textures in a single bite is addictive. It's very sweet, so the fresh whipped cream, light with a touch of vanilla, is absolutely necessary. And if squash is not your thing, you're bound to find joy in a quince and cheesecake stuffed crepe or a molten dulce de leche cake paired with caramel-streaked sea salt ice cream.
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
iatribeca.com
Posted by Nikki Goldstein, November 20, 2009 at 12:00 PM
"It's a great hangover brunch dish, and there's something to be said for that on a Sunday morning in the West Village."
[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]
With all the natural light that pours into the space, 10 Downing is a beautiful place to wake up. The one thing that nobody likes in the morning, though, is a broken promise: The website had given me hopes of a delicious-sounding sunny side up duck egg atop duck ham with stewed figs and onions, which my menu and waiter promptly and unapologetically informed me was no longer available. Thankfully, there was redemption, which took the form of two slow cooked eggs atop corned beef hash, a comfort-packed classic with extra oomph.
After a bread basket filled with carrot muffins, chocolate cookie logs, and olive oil cake, I was ready to tackle the hash, which looked far daintier than any I've seen before. Below the pile of frisee were two beautiful, gigantic eggs that had a favorably disproportionate ratio of yolk to egg white. I wondered where they came from—a local farm, perhaps?—but couldn't resist the desire to pierce the yolk and start chomping away.
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 19, 2009 at 4:30 PM
"Asians love glitter." —Pichet Ong
[Photo: Spot]
Normally I'm not a dessert guy, but yesterday I stopped by Pichet Ong's Spot, which Kathy reviewed earlier today, for one of the chef's seasonal desserts: jackfruit cake with rum toffee and coconut. I've had young jackfruit cooked in savory Indonesian preparations as well as raw mature jackfruit. Why not try it baked into a sweet treat? The gigantic fruit is native to Southeast Asia, so I was curious to see what the Taiwanese-born, Thai-raised dessert chef would do with its sticky flesh.
Rum and "Disco Sparkles," after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 20, 2009 at 4:00 PM
[Photos: Highlands; Laren Spirer]
In my mid-20's, I used to think all Scotch was the same. It was something that old men drank, and something that my male friends were "learning to drink." Every time I tasted it, all I got was heavy peat and smoke, so I assumed that's what Scotch was all about.
Flash forward to the present. Not only have I matured greatly since then (or so I'd like to think), but during the course of my spirits education—both formal and informal—I have learned just how wrong I was back then.
Highlands, New York's West Village Scottish bar, is a perfect place to educate yourself about Scotch whiskies. Take some time to taste and learn which ones suit your personal preferences; they've chosen about thirty, and compliled brief tasting notes on each, but their selection goes beyond the printed list. That said, Highlands isn't all about the Scotch. The comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere lends itself to a visit just to perch at the bar, no matter the type of tipple you prefer. They offer beer, wine, and a handful of seasonal cocktails, as well as modern Scottish-influenced small plates, like a lamb sausage roll and House Cured Loch Duart Salmon (haggis is reported to be coming in the not-too-distant future).
A recipe for my favorite Scotch cocktail, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 20, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
With the notable exception of Go Go Curry there is probably no Japanese restaurant in Manhattan more obsessed with New York Yankees left-fielder Hideki "Godzilla" Matsui than Go Sushi. Sports pages featuring Matsui are pasted above the sushi bar at this Saint Mark's izakaya, whose name means "five" in Japanese. To honor the newly minted MVP who has worn the number 55 since his days at the Yomiuri Giants, and in recognition of the Yanks World Series win, Go introduced the Yankee Roll. My team loyalties—such as they are—lie with the Mets, but only because I love Queens. Nevertheless, I decided to cast aside my loyalty to the home team and try the $5.50 creation.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 20, 2009 at 1:30 PM
The menu description doesn't do this dessert justice: "acorn squash slowly cooked in syrup served with vanilla scented whipped cream." The dessert is by Natalia Machado, the pastry chef at Tribeca's Industria Argentina, and it's named Zapallos en Almibar ($9), an Argentinian classic with a rich history, not often served outside the home. Acorn squash is cubed, soaked in pickling lime, then cooked for hours in syrup.
The result? Glossy, almost translucent cuts of squash, with an crackle crisp exterior and innards, a soft and creamy affair. The contrast of two textures in a single bite is addictive. It's very sweet, so the fresh whipped cream, light with a touch of vanilla, is absolutely necessary. And if squash is not your thing, you're bound to find joy in a quince and cheesecake stuffed crepe or a molten dulce de leche cake paired with caramel-streaked sea salt ice cream.
Industria Argentina
329 Greenwich Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
iatribeca.com
Posted by Nikki Goldstein, November 20, 2009 at 12:00 PM
"It's a great hangover brunch dish, and there's something to be said for that on a Sunday morning in the West Village."
[Photo: Nikki Goldstein]
With all the natural light that pours into the space, 10 Downing is a beautiful place to wake up. The one thing that nobody likes in the morning, though, is a broken promise: The website had given me hopes of a delicious-sounding sunny side up duck egg atop duck ham with stewed figs and onions, which my menu and waiter promptly and unapologetically informed me was no longer available. Thankfully, there was redemption, which took the form of two slow cooked eggs atop corned beef hash, a comfort-packed classic with extra oomph.
After a bread basket filled with carrot muffins, chocolate cookie logs, and olive oil cake, I was ready to tackle the hash, which looked far daintier than any I've seen before. Below the pile of frisee were two beautiful, gigantic eggs that had a favorably disproportionate ratio of yolk to egg white. I wondered where they came from—a local farm, perhaps?—but couldn't resist the desire to pierce the yolk and start chomping away.
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 19, 2009 at 4:30 PM
"Asians love glitter." —Pichet Ong
[Photo: Spot]
Normally I'm not a dessert guy, but yesterday I stopped by Pichet Ong's Spot, which Kathy reviewed earlier today, for one of the chef's seasonal desserts: jackfruit cake with rum toffee and coconut. I've had young jackfruit cooked in savory Indonesian preparations as well as raw mature jackfruit. Why not try it baked into a sweet treat? The gigantic fruit is native to Southeast Asia, so I was curious to see what the Taiwanese-born, Thai-raised dessert chef would do with its sticky flesh.
Rum and "Disco Sparkles," after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Tia Kim, November 19, 2009 at 1:00 PM
"You may feel like you're dining in a mall restaurant along the Garden State Parkway, but the food is solid."
[Photos: Tia Kim]
It didn't look promising when I entered Bar Stuzzichini. It was dark, and there was just too much red paint, layered upon layer like most apartment staircases in the East Village. The friend who accompanied me said the place reminded her of Applebee's. Ouch. Not good. Nevertheless, we grabbed one of the more cheerful looking tables by the window and ordered a few stuzzichini (appetizers) and a pasta to share. I've had great meals at worse looking places.
And Bar Stuzzichini didn't disappoint.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 19, 2009 at 12:00 PM
[Photos: Kathy Chan]
Ground Support in Soho, a coffee-sandwich-pasty shop, hasn't received much press; for now it still feels like a relatively untouched neighborhood gem. I doubt it will be this way for long. There is ample seating in this former gallery space; the vibe is open, airy, and relaxing, with National Geographic magazines scattered about the communal picnic tables. The main attraction is the coffee, but for me, the sandwiches are the star of show—delicious, though expensive, averaging $9. They are pre-assembled and panini-pressed to order.
My favorite is the Cuban ($10), Grandaisy bread layered with turkey, Berkshire ham, gruyere cheese, pickles, peppadew relish, and dijon remoulade. Not exactly traditional, but fatty, rich and quite satisfying. The sandwich is slim in width and short in stature, but the flavors, brightened by the relish, are enough to make one happy—if not necessarily fill one up.
Sandwiches and sweets, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 19, 2009 at 11:00 AM
[Photos: Kathy Chan]
My heart was beating so fast when I left Pichet Ong's newly opened East Village dessert shop Spot yesterday evening, I had to find a bench and sit down for a minute. My fault. I had one dessert at Spot, and then another, and then just because we go all out for you, dear reader, one more. And the one more. And a drink to go. Ong's former bakery, Batch, was fun...
... but Spot is serious. There are those familiar cupcakes from Batch, coupling chocolate with green tea and mocha with caramel, and there are cookies—Chinese walnut, ginger oatmeal raisin to name a few.
But then, there's much more.
Continue reading »
Posted by Carey Jones, November 18, 2009 at 5:00 PM
"Even my Diet Coke was awful."
[Photos: Robyn Lee]
At Serious Eats, we eat an awful lot of meals we don't tell you about. And usually, if there's nothing to recommend, we keep our mouths shut. Why review an unremarkable restaurant with mediocre food? There's no reason to waste your time or ours.
But every once in awhile, we find a spot so egregiously awful that we simply have to write it up. To save you from making the same mistake we did. To spare your stomach and your wallet and your schedule. So today, we present you the most laughably terrible lunch we've eaten in ages—at Lucy's Cantina Royale.
Let's get one thing straight; we didn't expect this geographically confused Baja-Tex-Cali-Mex restaurant to be particularly good. Factor in my Californian "This isn't real Mexican!" snobbery and a few gushing PR emails, and we weren't particularly optimistic. But we try to eat as widely as possible, and just a five-minute walk from our office, Lucy's deserved a shot.
We should have known better. There are four Rules of Restaurants I have yet to disprove:
- If a restaurant refers to itself as a "concept," the food's probably not very good.
- If a restaurant is at 34th and 8th, the food's probably not very good.
- If a restaurant has Slushie machines behind the bar, the food's probably not very good.*
- If the waitresses are wearing distractingly skimpy outfits, the food's probably not very good.
And we'll add a fifth, on the basis of this lunch alone: If a restaurant has the charming pronouncement "Tequila makes your clothes fall off!" stenciled over the bar... the food's probably not very good.
Five strikes against Lucy's before we even sat down. And it sure as hell didn't get better from there. (The fact that it set us back $66 didn't help, either.) A comedy of errors, after the jump.
*The one exception: Momofuku Noodle Bar. If you have another, bring it on.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 18, 2009 at 3:00 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Thanksgiving season means marshmallow season. And alongside the Vosges Caramel Marshmallows and the house marshmallow flavors at Three Tarts comes the new Momofuku Milk Bar cake. Meet the Chocolate Malt Cake, created from layers of densely moist chocolate cake, thick, glossy malt fudge, malted milk crumbles, and marshmallows. Charred marshmallows, of course—these are the same marshmallows that top the sweet potato and pie crust soft serve twist at Noodle Bar. Like all Milk Bar cakes, you are advises to share. But if downing a whole portion alone on a rainy evening is what pleases you, go ahead—you've got my approval.
Momofuku Bakery & Milk Bar
207 2nd Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map)
momofuku.com
Posted by Chichi Wang, November 18, 2009 at 2:00 PM
[Photos: Chichi Wang]
For diners wishing to experience a whole lot of offal in one sitting, Paradou in the Meatpacking District may be a good option. The tiny French bistro, located right across from Pastis, offers classic bistro fare with some Mediterranean influences. Last Wednesday marked the first installment of their offal-intensive tasting menus, $40 for a 4-course prix fixe, which will continue throughout this month. Bring your appetites; servings are hefty and rich.
Three courses of Nasty Bits, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Ed Levine, November 17, 2009 at 11:00 PM
"The food-world equivalent of Springsteen playing a last-minute gig at a small club."
[Photographs: Robyn Lee]
Ma Peche
Mezzanine at the Chambers Hotel, 15 West 56th Street, New York NY 10019 (b/n Fifth and Sixth Avenues; map)
Service: Friendly and surprisingly efficient for what may be a temporary operation
Setting: Lounge-like, a combination of small wooden tables and coffee tables made of felt
Compare It To: The Breslin, Standard Grill, other Momofuku restaurants
Must-Haves: Grilled cheese, cheeseburger, granola, chocolate chip cookies
Grade: A-
Momofuku's Tien Ho may be the best chef in New York that you've never heard of. That's going to change when Má Pêche, the company's first foray into Midtown, opens in 2010 in the former Town space in the basement of the Chambers Hotel. Chomping at the bit, waiting for the dining room renovations to be completed, Ho—a former sous chef at Cafe Boulud—and his crew started serving lunch in a sort of makeshift restaurant in the mezzanine lounge of the hotel last Thursday.
The sudden opening was the food equivalent of Springsteen playing a last-minute gig at a small club. In other words, it became a culinary cultural happening disguised as hotel room service. Momofuku Midtown room service cooked by a great chef. Now that's a concept serious eaters could get behind.
Ho on the challenge he took on: "It was really tough trying to balance between what we love, and what we thought the hotel guests wanted. Ultimately, we cook the food that we love to eat and even more important, we carry the food products that we are proud to serve."
Being brilliant guerrilla marketers, they opened for lunch last Thursday, trumpeting a bunch of $10 "midtown lunch specials" (take a bow, Mr. Zach Brooks), an all-day menu, and a breakfast menu that's served from 7 to 11 a.m.
Our lunches and brunches, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 17, 2009 at 3:30 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Growing up, my sister and I referred to this as "The Eyeball Drink," served by Mom as an afternoon refresher on a hot day. But really, it was nothing more than basil seeds re-hydrated in water with a bit of sugar. You can literally pour a bag full of basil seeds into a glass of water and watch as they go from seeds to these translucent alien-like objects. $2.50 a cup is the going rate in Chinatown. Some places mix in sugar, others add liquid sugar, and others such as Banh Mi Sau Voi Cafe add in "pourtailai," pictured above. I don't know what the English translation is, but it's got texture of fine seaweed, thick and a bit crunchy. A fine pairing, if I do say so.
Banh Mi Sau Voi Cafe
101 Lafayette Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
212-226-8184
Posted by Nikki Goldstein, November 17, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photos: Kathy Chan]
I'm a fan of customizable food stuffs—even though I'm by no means a picky eater, there's a certain satisfaction in feeling part of the process. That's what drew me to Pure Dark, the Mars Company's West Village foray into high-end chocolate making—where, as of last week, you can make your own chocolate bark.
Pure Dark occupies a hefty space on a prime stretch of Bleecker, and it shows in the offerings: goodies like raspberry acai chocolate coins and cases of chocolate bark varieties speckled with crystallized ginger, nuts, dried fruits, and so on.
The make-your-own service contains all these toppings and more, which customers can mix and match to their own tastes. I liked the unlimited toppings setup (who wouldn't?), but was a little dismayed by the narrow selection, which included five kinds of nuts (either chocolate covered or plain), dried mango, cherries, cranberries, ginger, sea salt, and three kinds of cacao nibs (raw, chocolate covered, and caramelized).
Continue reading »
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 12:30 PM
[Photos: Carey Jones]
"The pastas at San Domenico simply shock the competition," wrote William Grimes of chef Odette Fada's work in 2003. "They are incomparable. Some seem almost unfair, like the giant dome-shaped ravioli stuffed with a soft egg yolk and drowned in truffle butter. The waiter might as well hand you a crisp hundred-dollar bill."
The hundred-dollar dish in question, uovo in raviolo, was first brought to San Domenico as the signature dish of chef Valentino Marcattilii, Fada's predecessor. But she and restaurateur Tony May have kept it on the menu—first at San Domenico itself, then at its downtown incarnation, SD26 on Madison Square Park.
It's nearly impossible to imagine a more decadent pasta dish. You could sprinkle gold leaf on top and still hardly up the indulgence factor. Each enormous raviolo, the size of a tennis ball, houses a whole, soft egg yolk along with a ricotta-spinach filling; cut it open, just like sliding your fork into a perfectly poached egg, and the yolk oozes out—joining the pool of browned truffle butter, Parmigiano, and shaved truffles in a single marbled sea of deliciousness.
But how does it work? How does Chef Fada suspend the yolk so precisely? How is it cooked so perfectly? We had to know—and so we present you, without further ado, the making of uovo in raviolo. How the magic happens, after the jump.
Previously:
The Making of Michael White's Fusilli at Marea
The Making of the Momofuku Milk Bar Volcano
View the gallery »
Posted by Carey Jones, November 17, 2009 at 11:30 AM
[Photo: Carey Jones]
We've shown you the brick-and-mortar options for Thanksgiving shopping. But the Pilgrims didn't head to Citarella for their first holiday meal. If you're looking to draw from our land and support our local farmers, hit up the farmers' markets for your Thanksgiving spread.
We've compiled a three-headed guide to market shopping: Union Square for the Manhattanites, Grand Army Plaza in Brooklyn, and the New Amsterdam Market—our favorite local food extravaganza, held conveniently on November 22nd.
All the info, after the jump.
Continue reading »
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 16, 2009 at 4:00 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
It's not snowing yet, but already I'm all excited for winter-y desserts: warm fruit cobblers, mulled cider, and of course, endless mugs of hot chocolate. And to accompany those mugs of hot chocolate? Marshmallows, of course. Jet-puffed will do in a pinch, but for the utmost indulgence, I head for Vosges Haut-Chocolat for a set of caramel marshmallows. Here's the breakdown. A half-inch tall puffy marshmallow is flecked with bourbon vanilla beans. Then, a layer of gooey sweet caramel with a hint of grey sea salt. And to finish, crushed caramel toffee and a silky dark chocolate shell. Warm up your mugs, do a quick dip. The chocolate melts just a touch, and the caramel goes all soft and tender—absolutely perfect.
Vosges Haut-Chocolat
132 Spring Street, New York NY 10079 (map)
212-625-2929
vosgeschocolate.com
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 16, 2009 at 2:30 PM
[Photos: Kathy Chan]
There's a Japanese bakery in Hawai'i called Saint Germain that makes, among many sweets, a killer strawberry shortcake. It was the cake my parents ordered for my first birthday, and every birthday since then. In my mind, only Japanese bakeries can create great strawberry shortcakes—delicate and light as a feather—far preferable to the heavy yellow butter cake with sugary frosting found at most American bakeries. In the East Village, where I currently live, we are fortunate to have our pick of strawberry shortcakes—three, to be exact.
The best is at the recently re-opened Panya (at top) where each slice runs $3.75. The 50:50 cake-to-cream ratio was just perfect, with a fair helping of thinly sliced strawberries evenly laid across between generous swaths of cream. The exterior side of the cake, sweet just enough, is lightly dusted in toasted cake crumbs, and the whole cake is tender and light with a moist body.
Continue reading »
Posted by Carey Jones, November 16, 2009 at 12:15 PM
"The people have spoken. And City Bakery is no longer their cookie of choice."
[Photos: Robyn Lee and Sophie Finkelstein]
Last week in the Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship, we went uptown to find the best chocolate chip cookies on the Upper East and Upper West Sides. Having found our favorites, we're now moving to Midtown—between Union Square and 60th Street.*
In this round, there were formidable contenders and surprising upsets: disappointing frontrunners, dark horses, and a chain thrown into the mix.
Our eight contestants: City Bakery, Pret a Manger, Max Brenner, Petrossian, Ruby et Violette, Frankie's (at Stumptown), and Times Square Hot Bagels.
The best chocolate chip cookie in Midtown, after the jump.
*Okay, this isn't all Midtown. But do we really need separate Hell's Kitchen, Murray Hill, Gramercy, Flatiron, and Chelsea cookie tastings? We're sticking with "Midtown-ish."
Continue reading »
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 13, 2009 at 4:00 PM
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
You know you're at a restaurant preview when the name of the place is still being painted on the storefront. So it goes in the fast-paced world of Chef Michael "Bao" Huynh who has opened so many restaurants in New York City that the Times devoted an entire article to how he's able to proceed at such a rapid pace. Last night I joined a hundred or so other food bloggers, members of the press, and friends of the house, for a preview party at OBAO, the latest addition to Huynh's ever-expanding empire. It's located on an East Midtown block that's home to two Japanese restaurants, two Indian joints, a Peking duck specialist, and a Korean spot. Fitting site for a restaurant whose menu includes interpretations of Cambodian, Filipino, Laotian, Malaysian, Vietnamese, Singaporean, and Thai dishes.
Representing Cambodia, the Khmer style pomelo salad ($10) with bibb lettuce, herbs, chili peppers, coconut and crispy shallots sounded quite intriguing. Sadly like many other items, including the equally intriguing curry puff ($8), stuffed with duck liver and confit, it was unavailable that night. Curry puff with duck liver and confit! I'll be back for more than a few of those.
I'll also be back for OBAO's spin on pad see iew ($10), a Thai noodle dish. Huynh's version is a Korean-Thai mashup with kalbi replacing the thin strips of meat normally seen in the dish. Oh, and he spikes it with what sounds like something a Korean grandma who spent time in India would make: green mango kimchi. There were small plates like crispy spring rolls ($7) and a delicious ox-tail pho with an amazing depth of flavor.
Continue reading »
