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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Sometimes the simplest deli sandwiches are the best. The trick? Stick to what that deli does best.

At Leo's Latticini in Corona, one of the neighborhood's last bastions of Italian American food culture, that means great fresh mozzarella. It's clean and milky with a rich, buttery texture, only mildly seasoned so it takes well to sprinkles of salt or a layer of prosciutto. But I most prefer it solo in a crusty hero loaf, where it comes sliced thin and stacked high—there's an inch of mozz in this sandwich.

Leo's is also known for a mix of marinated peppers and mushrooms that add oily sweetness to their sandwiches. This is important: don't leave Leo's without them. Not getting a hero? Get them in a deli container. Buying a mozz sandwich as I did here? Ask for a generous helping on top, making sure to get both hot and sweet peppers.

At this point you could add some prosciutto or soppresata if you'd like, but trust me, try it meat-free first. The two-note tune of creamy mozz and punchy marinated vegetables is pretty perfect as-is.

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