The Good Dine, a primarily take out spot on bustling Westchester Avenue in Williamsbridge, is probably the Bronx's best Jamaican restaurant. Come dinner time, you'll invariably find a line of local Jamaican expats, placing orders for tripe and peas and curry goat. The restaurant serves the Bronx's best plate of Oxtail ($7-12), incomparable to any I've tasted in the borough save El Atoradero's rendition, rabo en adobo.
Oxtail is a dime a dozen at Jamaican restaurants, but rarely is it done so well. Most of time, you'll find a low quality cut, mostly fat and little meat, in a sauce that is sweet and one-note.
Here the oxtail is anything but. If you're smart, you'll swindle them into giving you a whole order of nothing but oxtail. The rice and beans are just filler, especially when the protein is this good.
It's seasoned by scotch bonnet peppers and just a hint of spices to back them up. The pepper comes with care: it suggests the promise of an impending burn but never overwhelms. The bonnet's hot, fruity flavor is present in every bite, at full force, but you're never scorched. The meat, too, is plenty meaty and just a touch fatty. It's tender and rich, as succulent as you could desire, without overwhelming you.
You likely won't find a better bite in this neck of the Bronx. There's magic at work here.
About the author: Chris Crowley is the author of the Bronx Eats and Anatomy of A Smorgasburg Pop Up columns. Follow him on Twitter, if you'd like. In person, your best bet is the window seat at Neerob, or waiting in line at the Lechonera La Piranha trailer.