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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

I don't need to tell you that Russ and Daughters knows its fish. While the Lower East Side institution is known as the place to get old school smoked seafood, they don't have a problem with trying something different.

You can see that adventurous side in their Fancy Delancy sandwich ($9) on a bagel or new-and-improved Kossar's bialy. The base of the sandwich is smoked tuna, lightly smoky with a delicate tuna richness. A standard schmear is subbed out for rich horseradish dill cream cheese, and bright green wasabi-infused flying fish roe provide a delightful crunch—if not a ton of wasabi flavor.

It sounds at first like the Fancy Delancey might have too much going on, but any fears subside after the first bite. It's fantastic sandwich serving of the Russ & Daughters name.

About the author: Rabi Abonour is an editorial intern at Serious Eats. A Midwest native, he's taken up the challenge of exploring New York one bite at a time. You can find him on his blog, Twitter, and Instagram.

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