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L'Albero Dei Gelati Makes Great Non-Dairy Ice Cream

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Brooklyn ice cream shop, bakery, specialty goods store, and general emporium of twee L'Albero dei Gelati makes pricey but delicious ice cream and sorbet. This we know. So it shouldn't come as too great a surprise that their vegan-friendly dairy-free gelato is some of the best New York has to offer.

L'Albero's almond milk gelati come in nutty flavors—right now almond and hazelnut—and are made with little more than full-fat almond milk, a nut base for flavoring, and fructose for sweetness. The scoops are a more cold and less fatty than the dairy-based gelato, so they feel firmer to the teeth and melt faster on the tongue. But they're still impressively creamy, way more gelato than sorbet, and the hazelnut flavor in our scoop come through loud and clear. Nut-intensive ice cream like this doesn't come cheap, but L'Albero doesn't take shortcuts either.

On the dairy side of the freezer case you'll find a slightly savory pumpkin ice cream with sweet nuggets of candied chestnuts. It's refreshingly subtle compared to other pumpkin ice creams, more squash than pie, and those candies add cheerful contrast. Get it while the cool weather is still here, as flavors rotate frequently and spring ice creams are just on the horizon.

At $5.15 for a small, L'Albero's ice cream is among the city's priciest, but its flavors don't disappoint.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the New York editor and ice cream maker in residence at Serious Eats. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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