For the past few weeks, Bon Appetit has been deep diving into what makes Andrew Tarlow's Brooklyn restaurant group tick.
The series, called Out of the Kitchen, takes a weekly look into one or another aspect of the group that includes Reynard, Diner, Marlow & Sons, Marlow & Daughters, and Roman's. It begins with an interview with Tarlow himself, who over the years has developed a Gabe Stulman-like knack for the types of restaurants that cater to his loyal clientele. He also remarks on how Wiliiamsburg's changes over the past 15 years have affected running his restaurants: "In the beginning, [cooks] lived around the corner from us and had reached a point where they could say, I don't need to commute, I could just do it here....But they also can't afford to live here anymore, which is tricky."
The series goes on to profile Reynard's wine director and the story behind Diner's now-iconic handwritten menu. For more on the restaurant group and its impact on the north Brooklyn dining world, see the whole series here.