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Park Italian Gourmet is a Real Deli for Midtown Lunches

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[Photographs: Rabi Abonour]

Finding a good deli in Midtown is notoriously difficult. Could Park Italian Gourmet, with its Little Italy charm and no-frills decor, make sandwiches better than the ubiquitous steam table joint competition?

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The Chicken Cutlet Parmigiana Hero ($7.50) is a passable option, with fairly moist chicken and a sweet, mild sauce. But the ingredients are done no favors by a soft, overly chewy hero that overwhelmed its fillings. Were we to order this again we'd ask for well-toasted bread first.

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You're better off sticking to the deli's array of cold cuts; we oped for prosciutto, hard salami, and provolone dressed with sweet peppers, oil, and vinegar (all told, $7.50). The ingredients were all well proportioned, the meat and cheese thinly sliced, and the kaiser roll, if unremarkable, did its job well enough. Though it's not the best deli sandwich, it's a plenty satisfying workaday lunch if you're in the area. Given the deli's charm—and its lackluster competition—it's a fine choice for a sandwich.

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