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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

At Coppelia, pancakes come in two spins. There are buttermilk pancakes—light, fluffy, and painfully common elsewhere—and a blue corn version, the narwhal of pancakes in New York. With a denser, weightier texture and cornbread-like crumb, they're the pancakes for people who like their breakfast with a little more substance.

These aren't pancakes you blow through in a couple minutes. Add plenty of the softened butter provided and a drizzle of agave nectar (better than fake maple syrup, more economical than real maple) to make up for their slightly drier, not too sweet crumb, and take them slow. Does the blue corn add a flavor that plain yellow corn wouldn't? We can't say, but they sure look pretty.

A short stack will run you $6.50 at breakfast and $8.95 at lunch, dinner, and brunch. They're available each of the 24 hours that the restaurant is open.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the New York editor and ice cream maker in residence at Serious Eats. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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207 W 14th St btwn 7th & 8th Ave. New York NY 10011 212-858-5001

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