A Fancified Indian Sandwich at Pippali in Murray Hill
When we last saw chef Peter Beck, he was developing the menu at Benares near Times Square, where the casual restaurant hits upscale notes with a mixed seafood stew and some refined takes on chaat. He's now at Pippali, a Murray Hill Indian spot that runs in a similar vein. That includes a particularly fancy version of a Maharashtrian street snack, a sandwich best shared as a starter.
The Dabeli ($7) is two thin, toasted open-faced buns topped with a mess of crusty cumin- and coriander-spiced potatoes, a bold tamarind chutney, red onion, yogurt, crunchy fried sev noodles, and some coriander for good measure. You can find the slider-like sandwiches elsewhere in the neighborhood, but here it's more of a composed dish. The textures hit in even layers: toasty bread and home fried potatoes, cool yogurt and tamarind, crunchy pomegranate and sev.
Fill out your order with the especially fine Batata Sev Puri ($8) and the Jaipur Kofta, spinach, chickpea, and pumpkin dumplings in curry sauce ($13). Just pass on the Indian wine; Kingfisher is best here.