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Maison Kayser's Pumpkin is Low on Sugar, High on Pumpkin

Pumpkin eclair from Maison Kayser

[Photographs: Niko Triantafillou]

If you're a regular reader of this column, you've probably noticed that we've featured plenty of pumpkin desserts over the last few weeks. We looked at pumpkin soufflé, pumpkin cheesecake, pumpkin black and white cookies, and even pumpkin ice cream. I hope you're not sick of pumpkin yet, because I've got a few more on the way, starting with today at Maison Kayer.

The Pumpkin Eclair ($5.75) is a decidedly non-traditional choux pastry. For one thing, the filling is more of a lightly sweetened pumpkin purée than a true pastry cream, whipped cream, or custard. That means the pumpkin flavor is front and center, enhanced by ginger and cinnamon. There's also at least four times as much pumpkin purée as choux pastry, a lopsided ratio for any eclair.

The traditional glaze on top of pastry is replaced with a layer of crushed almonds and powdered sugar, adding some balancing sweetness to this otherwise restrained dessert.

About the author: Native New Yorker Niko Triantafillou is the founder of DessertBuzz.com his photographs of desserts and pastry chefs have appeared in the Wall Street Journal and Dessert Professional Magazine. He is an unabashed foodie nerdling. Follow him on Twitter at @DessertBuzz.

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