[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

They look like chow mein, but lagman, the handmade noodles native to the Uyghur people of western China and central Asia, are a different thing altogether. At Chayhana Salom, a new-ish Uzbek and Uyghur restaurant in Sheepshead Bay, the lagman are especially dense and spaeztle-like with an eggy richness. You can order the kobbly noodles boiled with broth on the side, but we prefer them stir fried ($7.50) and tossed with a subtly spicy sauce flecked with dill and notes of caraway. Chunks of somewhat chewy beef, shreds of omelette, and chow mein-like celery and bell peppers come on top, but this dish is all about the chewy dumpling texture of the noodles, perhaps the best lagman we've had in New York to date.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the New York editor at Serious Eats. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

Chayhana Salom

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Chayhana Salom

  • Sheepshead Bay

1652 Sheepshead Bay Rd b/n Jerome and Voorhies Brooklyn NY 11235 718-332-2200

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